name comes from
ZCron slicer is for UV Resin 3D Printers
This ZCron slicer is like no others.
as a test i just divided the Tower to over 8 Million active points in zbrush and sliced it with the ZCron slicer,
the OBJ file size 558 MB i dont know of any other slicer programs that can handle it with out freezing up your PC.
this is UHD ultra High Detail
This was tested on the Monoprice MP Mini SLA LCD High Resolution Resin 3D Printer
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=35435 a little over $200
The Tower image below is so small you could sit it on a quarter coin.
More to come/supports low poly noise/vector map/ displacement maps
you wont find any other UV Resin Slicer Like this.
The zscript will be ready for everyone soon as im done, almost there.
1:i used the ZBrush ZCron UV Resin slicer to slice the Rhino that comes with zbrush.
1:cleaned it up with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol this drys the model up to make the new wet resin stick good.
2: put the model on a mirror and used the red resin as a glue, glued the feet on the rhino to the mirror.
i wont use a mirror next time i just didnt like the look.
3: used a small paint brush to put the resin back on the rhino(cheap paint art brushes hair will come out of the brush)
do this in a dim lighted room (low to no uv lights) do this in a area with NO Dust,when the resin is dry
its so glossy 1 spec of dust will show up on your model,
4: put the model in a room with no lights and let it hang upside down for a few hours so the resin drips off
5: after a few hours just shake it once or twice if you see any resin drips then flip it so its upright
6: find any light or light bulb and let it dry (key is to let it dry slow) NO curing lamp
7:first coat must be completely dry, its like a primer coat, if you dont let it dry all the way it wont act as a primer
8: add a second coat you will now noticed you wont see any layer lines
9: two coats will work and 3 coats is the max,3 coats will start to smooth out hard edges,
if your into mold casting resin parts this is what you need.
10: this should take about a day to do and when its all most 95% dry put it out side for 1 hour
and bring it in the dark for 1 hour to cool and back in the sun, you will think its dry and it will feal dry
but for the last part bring it back inside and hang it upside down, if not the resin may have 1 last drip,
so dont think its dry all the way because it will try to drip when it feals dry,
do not finger the model to its all the way done.
after 2 days when the model was dry i showed 6 friends hanging around and let them hold it by palming the mirror plat form,
i said dont touch it because its still wet, they all look at it very close and handled it very carfully thinking it was wet.
after they all seen it i said its not wet and they was supersized, i mean this is very very high glossy,
took a 300 x magnifying glass and i see NO Layer lines,i seen 3 spec of dust so be carefull till fully drying.
the pic here and seeing it in person is a little off, it looks all-some in person.
the key here is if your model has tiny holes spray paint may clog the holes.
if you use resin for the color you can let it drip a bit then give it a shake so the holes dont clog.
this resin is durable like expoxy if your worried about scratching it.
WARNING do not put your model out side untill you think its at least 95% dry.
DONT TRY ANY OF THIS OUT SIDE,
if you have any wet resin on your gloves or in a cup and you walk out side
it will burn threw your glove less when 10 seconds,
if the cup is plastic it will burn a hole threw it and it gets so hot you may see smoke.
i know i done it,
WARNING do not even do this on a cloudy day thinking less uv,
i walked out side with resin on my glove and it felt like hot plastic burning my skin…
the image below with the rhino is done and has been dried for 2 days
you can see kind of how it looks by going here.
on step 6 i said NO curing lamp, if the light bulb drying it way to slow i did hit it with a nail curing lamp it has low uv light but i all so had the light far away from the resin all most 2 feet away,
reason you want to dry slow is because if you dry fast the outer resin drys first now you trapped the inside resin thats not dryed and this will make it shrink and not be smooth and could crack.
house paint does the same thing, key is dry slow.
you cant dry slow using a good curing lamp or using sun light, 5 seconds in the sun and you cooked it.
once its dryed ALL the way then cook it, i put mine on a solar turntable and let it in the sun to spin and dry.
you know when you did a good job when you can let it spin dry out in the sun for a long time and its still smooth and glossy like when you pulled it off the printer wet.
when i took it off the printer wet and then slow dried it they both look the same.
you can do it in steps, 1 dry slow then speed up the drying time in steps.
60 minutes of light bulb drying time i then hit it with my nail uv light 2 feet away
45 minutes later of light bulb drying time i then hit it with my nail uv light 2 feet away
30 minutes later of light bulb drying time i then hit it with my nail uv light 2 feet away.
then let it dry for 1 hour then repeat the steps again, it needs cool down time this keeps the model hard and not melting it making it smooth out to much losing its shape.
put some resin on a mirror or hard flat surface and watch and see if you try to cure it to fast.
i all so i said 2 coats will work and 3 may start to smooth out hard edges, i think drying it to fast may all so smooth out hard edges, when it drys to fast it cooks and melts it.
trust me when i say cook it, i put some wet resin on a dried model out in the sun and it got hot and stared to smoke.
be a good idea to make a curing box dry slowly then speeds up drying threw time,
kind of like a light dimmer switch where you can adjust how much light or the amount of light is being put out.
have it set automatically.
program uv dimmer switch.
5% uv light
10% uv light
15% uv light
0% uv light (cool down time) >optional you may want to flip your model upside down at this time if you see any resin dripping at the bottom.
repeat the steps, model needs to be flipped upright on all drying time.
this needs to be done inside a enclosed box so no dust dries on the resin
here is one i did because i was trying to get the dust off the dried resin.
slight sanding took 1 minute
took top coat clear finger nail clear
took 30 seconds then waited a few minutes before putting out in the sun.
this clear is not like the resin, it dries fast if your brushing it on
but it takes a while to dry to the touch.
i pored the clear on then brushed it fast, you cant be slow or it will be what we call pulling
where the brush pulls the resin , once done never go back and brush it once it starts drying.
top coat finger nail clear cost $1 at the dollar store