Cgi/3d Computer So Far....almost Finished...

#1

Hay guys,
I have almost finished my computer. here is what I choose till now and some that still have to be decided. I would appreciate if you write what you think about it and can help me decide what is need to be decided:

Processor: Intel i7 3930k

Motherboard: Haven’t decided yet

asus sabertooth x79
or
asus p9x79 pro
or
asus p9x79 deluxe

Graphic Card: Haven’t decided yet

GTX 760/770
or
QUADRO K2000

Ram: Haven’t decided yet

Kingston 16GB DDR3 1600MHz KHX1600C9D3K4/16GX
or
Corsair 16GB DDR3 1600MHz CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9

Ssd: 120GB sandisk (For c: drive, most of the installation will be made there)

Hard drive:

WESTERN DIGITAL CAVIAR BLACK 2TB WD2002AFEX

Cooler:

NOCTUA NH-D14 SE2011

Monitor: Haven’t decided yet (I am searching for a good 23-24" inches monitor and maybe later i will upgrade)

LG IPS LED 24EA53T
or
LG IPS IPS237L
or
LG IPS LED 23EA73LM
or
LG IPS LED 24EA53VQ

WILL GLAD TO HEAR YOUR OPINION! AND IF YOU CAN HELP ME DECIDE…

Case haven’t decided yet…
power supply - 750W

THX

#2

That memory runs at a higher voltage than normal memory (1.65 volts versus 1.5 volts). The Corsair memory runs at the standard voltage which is a better option in my opinion.

For most people 120GB is not enough space for a boot drive. If a larger SSD isn’t in the budget I’d pass on the SSD this time.

Make sure the motherboard and case can accommodate a cooler that big. It also makes working on a machine a pain in the ass because it hangs over everything else, for example upgrading the memory down the road might require the heatsink to be removed for the install.

#3

thx! the corsaire is also the one i like better.
about the cooler i checked it and it fits with the asus p9x79pro/deluxe and mid tower case. i am aware of the “hang over” problem, thx…what about the other stuff do you have any recommendations? motherboard - sabertooth i cancelled now it is left to decide whether to take the asus pro or the deluxe. i dont really care about the additonal features in deluxe but more about the power and heating distribution that is differet between the two them. the phases are different - according to what i’ve heard.
also what about the monitors? of course as a start and later i’ll upgrade.

thx.

#4

You’ll likely have a hard time fitting the Noctua over those Vengeance ram sticks. I’d look for heatsink-less ram since those heatsinks are pretty much worthless anyway…

#5

ok, so i checked it out, and noctua doesnot support the corsair vengeance cards (ram compatible wise) - as you wrote, only pro-series, low profile, xms3 and maybe one more module. there is the 32gb 84 corsair cards whice are the pro series and compatible for the noctua d-14 but i am not planning on buying 32gb right now. so, i think i will buy the kingston hyperx genesis 16gb ddr3 44 - the second choice i had whice is compatible for the noctua d-14. what do you say about that module/firm? and also what about the motherboards? pro or deluxe?

thx. :slight_smile:

#6

G.Skill Ares are better bang for buck and cool better than any comparable Corsair offer.

As for the Noctua, can I ask why spend close to 100 bucks for air cooling?

You can get a much more practical H50 for less money and have equivalent or better and more silent cooling in the process, not to mention it won’t try to pry your mobo apart with its weight, or have that retarded footprint the Noctua is famous for.
It’s bound (the Noctua) to be one of the most over-popular coolers out there at this point, it’s beyond me how people think it’s acceptable to have a small crate hanging off their mobo when closed circuit, no maintenance liquid is so accessible these days.

#7

There’s similar-performing air coolers for less money out now, but $100 is a lot for the noctua. If you look hard enough you can find the noctua’s for $75-80.

The noctua doesn’t rely on a water pump that can fail, or have the possibility of slowly leaking water onto the video card - we’ve all seen the pics right?

It’s really nice that corsair has software to let you know the status of the pump …too bad it’s only compatible with Windows.

#8

The pump failing thing is a myth.
Beside the fact they are pumps that are guaranteed to work for years, these days they connect to the motherboard for power, so if it was to fail and stop drawing, or overdraw, it’d trigger a fan alarm same as any air cooler would, and that works on Linux, OS-X, or Windows.

The leaks, unless ambiental conditions are ridiculously adverse, are also a thing that’s exceedingly rare, and statistically too past biased.
They have the same incidence of a heavy cooler ripping old motherboards’ PCBs apart. I’ve seen pictures of that too, but I don’t find it a reason to discourage buying large air coolers :slight_smile:

I have an H50 and it runs a 4770k at over 4.7 effortlessly and whisper quiet. I paid 72$ for it, and it was a see-it-pick-it-up purchase, it could be found for less. The Noctua around here, cheapest I could find, was 79 (and that was unboxed, otherwise it was always in the 80s to 90s.

Food for thought.

#9

Fair enough

The noctua is also quiet. You don’t even hear it.

The fan alarm on the pump is nice. I just don’t like that you have 1 fan and 1 pump. If either fail, the CPU can possibly get damaged.

The noctua has 2 fans. If either fails, no big deal. You can even add a third fan for more redundancy.

You know it’s good competition when we’re nitpicking over $10-20 difference for a cpu cooler when their whole system probably costs $1000-2500.

#10

Yeah, cooling options compared to the dawn of overclocking have come a long way.
Failure really isn’t a big deal these days IMO. CPUs are amazingly well shielded from anything but the most sudden and catastrophic failure, and either fan or pump failure, or both at the same time, however unlikely, even not communicated to the mobo, will still produce a window of several seconds while the CPU warms up to critical level, time during which the CPU will instantly throttle down first, then start shutting things down, and ultimately shut down a long margin before actual component failure.

You would have to literally and suddenly take a cooler off the CPU for an Ivy or Haswell these days to just have a chance of it creaming its components, and the voltage regulator, which is oversized intentionally, would still stand a good chance of making it through it and shutting down the rest before powering off.

#11

doesn’t matter guys i dont like the h50 and all the liquid coolers for the same reasons you wrote above. (leaking, 1 fan and etc…) i dont want to take the risk. regarding the price i dont care to spend a little bit more to get a really good cooler that i can trust for longer period of time. about the g.skill cards…forget about the money for one sec, dont you think that the kingston hyperx genesis is better? i didn’t hear a lot of good things about the g.skill firm reagarding reliability and performing…what do you say?

#12

what do you recommend more:
G.Skill 16GB DDR3 1600MHz 44 ripjawsZ
or
G.Skill 16GB DDR3 1600MHZ 44 ares

they both match to the NH D-14 - i checked.

#13

On AMD platforms RAM does have some impact, on Intel however people should simply stop taking all those RAM tests seriously.
The difference in performance that benchmarks show is extremely artificial and it’s largely irrelevant outside of the overclocking for the sake of numbers game.

The reliability argument is another joke played on customers, in day to day activities on RAM that isn’t aggressively overclocked, and you don’t get your overclock on Ivy or Haswell from the base clock, you’d be very hard pressed to tell the difference between the cheapest plain sticks from a reputable vendor and the absolute top of the line ones costing time and half as much.

Stick cooling past a certain point is also a bit of a joke. Those massive flimsy constructs on modules like the vengeance make absolutely no difference in example.
No heatsinks at all with good flow and making sure there’s no stale pockets will be a million times better than some fancy, thermodynamically laughable highly turbulent thin fins that sit in a pocket and almost touch your CPU heatsink.

Get 1866 to have that little bit of elbow room for the last stretch of performance (IE: a bump from 100 to 105), and so that if you really, really can’t live without it you can drop one of the CAS a notch, and go for low profile, so that you don’t have problems with coolers or installation.
Personally I’d go for 2x8 if all you want is 16GB, so you have room to spare if you decide to upgrade, and better resell value.

Ares 1866 C10 are perfectly fine. Well built, low profile, rock solid, and priced right, not to mention massively adopted on Ivy.

As for the cooling, I still have to see ONE picture or article about an H50 that leaked other than the couple that have been doing the rounds that were patently over-torqued cabling or mis-installation, something you would really have to make an active effort for it to happen.
But that’s up to you. Do bear in mind it’s an absolutely irrational fear statistically speaking, fans are a lot more likely to fail with age (and trivial to replace) than a submerged pump or a cable seal are. Cheaper and worse built closed loops operate in more aggressive conditions than that for decades before failure.

#14

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