Can you section the model at all?
I’m not familiar with C4D at all, but I’m familiar with what you’d ideally want to do.
First save two copies of your file under different names… now leave the original file alone. This way you can always get back to it.
I see there’s something called a boolean subtract feature in C4D, which should act as a cutting plane for you. If you can position it in the exact position on both copies, you’ll be left with a right and left half. (apparently when using the boolean subtract feature, you need to make it editable immediately afterwards, to stop the program from trying to recalculate stuff you don’t want).
I would suggest that you then take two cylinders and subtract those from one half (on the cutting plane)… assuming that’s possible, and then add the same cylinders with the size very slightly reduced, into an aligned position in the other model. Another way of saying this is to add two cylinders to both copies of the file… with half the cylinders going into the model through your cutting plane, and half projecting out of the model. Then subtract the cylinders on one copy of the file, and add them on the other copy. It’d be useful if the cylinder was at least a little bit smaller diameter than the hole… Otherwise, you might need to sand the cylinders down slightly to get them to fit into the holes.
These become “keys” to permit to two halves to positively reunite in the finished model. Don’t use one, or it will permit twisting. Use two to ensure the two halves align properly.
Basically, you’re turning your model into two separate files, and adding “post and socket” alignment features. You’ll end up with a seamline, I’m sure, but likely it’s nothing you can’t fix when you finish the piece. Just BE SURE that the model’s clipping edge isn’t rounded… if it stays sharp, it’ll disappear better.
If you’ve got some practice under your belt, you should be able to put the cutline along the edge of your door, so that it goes along the door opening, and across the top of the front windshield… that’ll mean a more hidden seam, and less finishing work (OR might make it harder to clean… your results may vary).
The methods needed to properly print a half car is determined by the software/hardware… specifically, what type of printer you have… You’ll likely need to add detachable stands near the cutting edge, or slice the tires, to allow the body of the car to rest on the bottom forming plate, instead of bridging the body.
Your printing software may have a built-in sectioner or clipping feature with automatically generated keyways and removable external (and internal structural) bridges… Look there first… it may be designed to do exactly what you’re looking for as that’s a pretty standard objective for a 3d printer.