Color Theory and The Human Figure - NUDITY


#61

Mr. Mu,

Nice!!! :applause: A big kudos to you for not using the shortcut controls for brightness/contrast, and for really trying to grasp these concepts independently…well~done! :arteest:

The flower is now quite distinct from the background, due to the hue and saturation differences from the background, as well as due to it’s relative sharpness as compared to the blurred quality of the background. This has come a long way from your initial piece ~ keep at this, I think you are quickly getting the hang of things! :wip:

Cheers, :slight_smile:

~Rebeccak


#62

Here’s another color study of this image http://www.tropicalisland.de/DPS%20…0flower%20b.jpg. It’s a great picture, but for a painting, the composition needed work. Consequently, I rearranged some things. :smiley:


#63

Ooh, really nice piece! :thumbsup: Your work reminds me a bit of that of Audrey Flack in terms of the brightness of the colors:


http://209.59.165.223/read/data/upimages/AudreyFlackCMYK.jpg

[left]I like the compositional rearrangement as well ~ I think that it did need it for a painting, you’re totally right! Well, I hate to say, but I think this is going to be a really pretty thread…:smiley: :bounce:

Great to see your contribution here!

Cheers, :slight_smile:

~Rebeccak
[/left]


#64

Thanks, Rebeccak.

I usually flatten my work as I progress through a painting. However, this time, I saved many stages. So, if someone is interested in a tutorial let me know.

I never heard of Audrey Flack, but he (she?) looks very interesting.


Mr. Mu, thanks a bunch :slight_smile: I’m glad you like the thread…it encourages me to post more!


#65

Worked a little bit more on this one…


#66

danielh68,

Nice work! I like the progress on that front iceberg…really enjoying seeing your work…speaking of 'bergs…:slight_smile:

this is a really poor reproduction of one of my favorite paintings, which I was fortunate enough to see years ago when it was displayed at the National Gallery of Art in Washington:


http://www.thenewgnosis.org/images/Wreck%20of%20Hope%20-%20Sea%20of%20Ice.jpg

‘Wreck of Hope’, by Caspar David Friedrich ~ 1774-1840

[left]The colors are soooo much more vivid and blue in the original piece…if anyone can find a better reproduction, I would encourage them to post it here. :slight_smile:

I for one would definitely like to see those tuts, and I think others would agree. :wink:

Cheers,

~Rebeccak
[/left]


#67

Well, not great, but I figure I need the practice. :slight_smile:

From this Reference image:

[left]Cheers,

~Rebeccak
[/left]


#68

Slight update…

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#69

aha ha hahaHa… of course, man!

Rebecca - wonderful approach, looking forward to your next steps!


#70

Rebeccak – “Wreck of Hope” is a great painting. I also like how your landscape is progressing…I’m curious to send the next update:thumbsup:

Mr. Mu – I will try and put something together sometime today. :slight_smile:


#71

For anybody who’s interested, here’s a tutorial on my tropical flower.

First, I fill the white canvass with a gradated background of two slightly varying warm pure hue greens. Some may say, “green is cool, isn’t it?” Well, it’s sort of relative. For instance, all greens are cooler than orange; yet, within the context of just “greens” there are varying degrees of warmness and coolness. Lets look at the Photoshop color window below.

In a big-picture sense, I’ve indicated where the warm and cool colors reside along the spectrum. However, lets say a cool red is needed for the shadow side of a red cube, I would then pick from the cooler assortments of reds from the top of the spectrum. If I wish to be really colorful, I may even dip into the lavenders and blues. Hopefully, this makes sense.

Next I sketch in the flower loosely and rearrange the composition a bit from the established photograph. I omit the vine since it was a distraction and add another bulbous plant to the comp. I chose three bulbous plants because I like odd numbers and they work well for creating interesting asymmetrical yet balanced paintings. There’s two smaller ones on the left and a big heavy one on the right; as result, there’s some harmony and balance established. I also cropped the edge of the big plant, thus making it an odd number – only one cropped plant in the composition. Just remember, asymmetry and odd numbers = beauty.

During the second stage, I apply warm pure hue colors over my sketch except for the cool magenta on the petals. For the “Colorist School of Thought”, try to establish form with more reliance on temperature instead of darker values. The image below, although rough, succeeds in portraying form merely by the different applications of temperature. If you were to apply hue/saturation and desaturate it completely, you would discover that there’s not an extreme range of values that make-up the composition. In essence, it’s all accomplished through various temperature selections.

At this stage, I blend the solids a tad with a pressure sensitive brush. Any brush will work, it’s good to experiment with a variety of them.

Next, I tighten-up the flower and add some texture to various petals. Sometimes I create my own textured brush, often though, I just grab something from Adobe’s pre-existing library. As I continue, I add some pure cool blues with the cool magenta areas of the flower. These two colors are then carried into the shadows of the bulbous plants. I add some different blues for variation.

I also sample one of the blues and paint in some abstract forms into the background. Once the colors are established, I repeat a lot of them to maintain continuity and harmony in the piece.

At this phase, I wanted more pop from the flower so I played with Levels just a bit. This didn’t correct everything, so I used a big brush (set to Overlay) and applied a dark rich green to the background.

From here, the overall painting is fairly established. This is the fun part because I get to tinker and experiment. I further refine the piece using a multitude of different brushes, both textured and soft. Sometimes it’s good to use an airbrush or a textured brush set at very low opacity and, choosing an object color or background color, gently tap around selective edges of the forms letting them dissolve in the atmosphere.

After much tinkering, I create a separate layer set to Vivid Light, sample the brightest yellow from the flower, and dab one big fuzzy airbrush stroke over it. I’m happy with the luminous atmospheric glow it exudes and decide to end things from there.

Note: As I work, I constantly flatten my work then create a backup layer. I believe one can accomplish a more painterly feel to their work by working only on one layer as opposed to many.


#72

danielh68,

Great tut! :applause: It’s fantastic to see this, thank you! :wavey:

Looking forward to any and all further tutorials you might wish to provide! :bounce:

Cheers, :slight_smile:

~Rebeccak


#73

Daniel - thanks a lot for this tutorial. I just read through all of it and can say that this is one of those pieces of information you come repeatedly back to and always learn from it.

Thanks!


#74

Thanks everyone, much appreciated :slight_smile:

By the way, I downloaded ArtRage 2 today and, I must say, it’s a sweet little app. The oil paints have a very viscous feel to them. The really cool thing, though, is they get dirty just like traditional paints. This can be both a blessing and a curse, I suppose. The blessing is the user can actually mix compliments and achieve a nice range of greys. The curse is potential mud :argh:

Anyhow, here’s a doodle I did. It has a lot of color, so I figure this thread is appropriate.


#75

danielh68,

I’ve tried ArtRage once or twice, and it does have a nice feel to it. :slight_smile: Seems even people with more advanced programs are a fan of the free / nearly free app. :slight_smile:

Maybe I should try it…:smiley:

Cheers,

~Rebeccak


#76

hi Rebecca! i’ve been reading your workshops, n can’t wait to acctually start participating. =D
i’m still relatively new to 2d graphic art, i’ve done alot of sketching and traditional b/w art, but i’m afraid i’m terrible at colours. here is a problem i face alot… i tried making a palet, but i keep diverting away from it and using neighbors etc, my painting is muddy and clashes. but i’m not exactly sure whats wrong with it =/
here is my palet and some rough painting (i know… not much colour… but i better start small or i will make a complete fool of myself =P )

greyscale, it just… works better for me. whats wrong with my colours that seam to make it muddy, is it my blending?


#77

Junpei,

You seem to have a really beautiful start! :thumbsup:

You might try checking out this tutorial by Linda here:

Just some thoughts on smooth blending
http://forums.cgsociety.org/showthread.php?t=253711

Also, on her website, Linda provides several more excellent tutorials:

http://www.furiae.com/index.php?view=gallery

See in particular the one on “Thoughts on Skintones”.

Hope this helps. :slight_smile:

Cheers, :slight_smile:

~Rebeccak


#78

thanks!
thanks for the links, those were really helpfull exersises. kudos to linda for writing them =D

i found out i was mottling my colours because i was taking to many resamples and they were mixxing bad O_O,

from the skin tones, i took a look at them and compared there relative locations to the colour weel so i think i have better understanding of how shading/highlighting works with colours, i wasn’t bringing out the colours that were there.

i need to practice this more…! i’ll post my progress :slight_smile:


#79

Junpei,

No problem! Looking forward to seeing your update ~ your start is already really good! :thumbsup:

Cheers, :slight_smile:

~Rebeccak


#80

Junpei,

Nice start. I think you have way too many values established. A portrait painter, on the average, uses five values to define form: shadow, midtone, highlights…then followed by accentuated marks such as bright highlights and darker shadows.

I’m guessing your using a photo reference? Sometimes it’s real easy to get into a detailed and analytical mode of painting when using reference. I would suggest posterizing the picture or use Levels to reduce the many shades of grey to just a few. Or, you can just squint your eyes like I do . It really simplifies things greatly.

Another thing, I would never start on a white canvas because it’s not a neutral color, it’s too bright and may affect your decision-making. After I establish grey tone values, I apply a warm earthy brown wash over the entire canvas…even the character. It works best setting the layer adjustment to Overlay or Color, that way it has a transparent quality.

When this is complete, you already have your midtone color established. In other words, your overall basic skin color. That’s leaves you with just two core values to color. Apply some of your cool green lightly in the shadow areas and some basic skin color with more white to the highlight areas. From here, make things pop by adding your accentuated marks.

Only when I’ve completed this, would I attempt any blending. However, don’t blend all over your values, just where values intersect. For example, where 4 bumps up against 3, you would blend that line together. Try to keep blending in moderation, excessive blending will always lead to muddiness.

I hope this helps :slight_smile: