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  08 August 2004
Originally Posted by robinb: I used to do that for heavy scenes and it was painful to forget it was off when the first crash happened.

not if you get with habit of saving regaluerly . anyway use the way the looks SAFER to you.

Last edited by decembermoon : 08 August 2004 at 04:44 PM.
  08 August 2004
Customize that Gooey! Sound obvious but I'm betting most people do not tap the power of the strokes utility or put often used commands up in the quad menu, heck you can even make the quad menu transparent and tweak shorcuts per specific phases of a project. Got you own toolbar yet?

Latest trick? Render RPF format - 3D post is a great time saver and with AfterEffects 6.5 I'm finding I can sweeten focus, atmosphere, and color work very quickly - not to mention to other possibilities..

Shea Design 3D
  08 August 2004
use an x form modifier if you want to see how your soft selection settings work out
3D motion graphics artist
  08 August 2004
Quote: -Right clicking on the undo icon will bring up a list of the commands that you performed.
Great! I din't know that one! Like a Photoshop History. Great.

Quote: - keep a personal material library or better, divide your libraries like : my_metals , my_hair etc. that way you can reuse old stuff and you can deliver quickly ( more valid for proc.shaders though ).
Absolutely true. I did it on a rainy day, and it has been a real time saver for future projects.

I don't have that much tips myself, i always press "g" in viewport to get rid of the grid. (It annoys the hell out of me, not really a tip just a personal preference)
With standard primitives i always enable edge in creation method, when using snap.
The only people who never fail are those who never try
  08 August 2004
my trick for poly-modeling:

1. start with a spline shape, and then put a surface modifier on it.
2. collapse to editiable patch
3. put divisions down to zero for both renderable and visible.
4. work with the patch as if it were a poly.

you can rough out your shapes adhering to strict quads (always a pain for me in poly mode). When you need to refine your edgeloops, you can just select an edge and 'subdivide/propogate'.

once you are needing more refined detail, collapse to a poly and go from there. it will save a ton of time instead of cutting around your topology for refining, and will keep poles/tris/etc at a minimum.

everything ends up much cleaner than just attacking a cube
  08 August 2004
Poly align to Grid

In editable poly-
If you want a number of polys to be alligned on a specific plane (making a flat surface) create a grid with auto grid box checked on. The grid will be in allignment to the poly you have your cursor over. After you make the grid right click it and select Activate Grid. Go under select polygon and select the polys you want to align. Press the Grid Align button. This is useful when your polys are on a plane that is not square with the world coordinates. Try it out on a sphere converted to polys.
  08 August 2004
When creating using reference images or doing tutorials this can be helpful.

Option 1; Create a hotkey for the asset browser. Place your link to the tutorial or local image file into the address bar and now you have a floating image reference or tutorial.

Option2; Apply the asset browser to one of your active viewports and fill in the address bar. This may take up a viewport, but, if you are working from a tutorial, or reference image you will probably find this to be most useful.
  08 August 2004
When doing level design, custom grid is your best friend !

Adding a shortcut for create in poly edit is the thing that will make you model at least 3 times faster.

Use shortcuts for everything, and right click menu too; add the most common used functions in the right click menu.

Texporter sucks, use PSDPathUnwrapper instead.

Always use arc-rotate sub object to browse through scenes.

Ephere scene explorer is very useful.
Take a look at my websites : • my blogfolio

Last edited by Schwinnz : 08 August 2004 at 10:35 PM.
  08 August 2004
Press Alt+F4 to switch between Max window and desktop. (Joking)

Not sure if this was mentioned or not, but I always assign Ctrl+Shift+S to incremental save shortcut. After a while pressing that combination becomes automatic and you end up with 100's of files, but its really worth it.
  08 August 2004
create several plugin folders if you have a lot, and only put the plug in on the 3dsmax\plugins folder when you need them, it loads max faster but you will only be limited to using those plug ins.

go into custom UI and hide all the toolbars you dont need for extra work space, and only unhide them when you need to.
Track bar, reactor, main menu, etc.
Learn by doing.
  08 August 2004
Red face Basics

maybe someone knows my tricks but there are usefull to me.


i use "alt" and middle click to rotate, and "ctrl"+"alt" and middle click for zoom (i'm avoid use the wheel), and middle for pan.


when i want to save a perspective view, press "ctrl"+c and turn it into a camera view


press "alt"+x for make transparent yor model and see hidden vertex

for concentrate in some objects and don't be distracted for others, isolate the object with "alt"+q


press "shift"+z (only work in non camera view) for camera view use "ctrl"+z, for redo "shift"+y and "ctrl"+y.


i create a new primitive (aligned WC) and atach my "un-aligned" object to my primitive, and after delete the primitive.


try to divide my model in materials ex: head ID=1, torso ID=2, etc. for better control in unwarping, but before each ID i apply a UWV map that aproximate to the form of each object and collapse that('s) UWV('s) in the mesh, in the unwarped usually save and uwv file, or collapse the unwarp, cause some times don't apply the changes and your model appears unwarped.

maybe there are so basic for some one.
Warning, some of this don't work in cool gray UI
  08 August 2004
press 'o' to turn on adaptive degradation when working with really large scenes, helps speed up the viewport alot
  08 August 2004
Layers and postwork

You can spend ages trying to get the colors and contrast look good or get a great looking motion blur or depth of field in 3D when you could just render the scene in layers and get all that fine-tuning done in AfterFX (or Photoshop or whatever program you use) real-time!

Only the end result matters

Not everything in the scene has to be one hundred per cent photoreal 3D geometry. I've found it much easier a lot less resource intense to pre-render far away objects into flat planes facing the camera (or comping them in post) than trying to cram everything into the scene in full 3D. It's easier to cheat when you have a clear picture of the end result. Planning and storyboarding helps.
  08 August 2004
If your using a lot of references and guides(splines, grids...), use layers. For example one layer for your model, one for guides, one for references etc. it easier to turn them all on and off as needed.
  08 August 2004
I learned this one from someone else, I'll pass it on.

1. Create a new camera
2. Click on your perspective viewport
3. Press Ctrl+C to set your camera to the same view as your perspective viewport
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