C4D and 3D Printing

Hi people
So Christmas is looming and I'm feeling a little insane. A 3D Printer is something that has been on my impulse purchase wish list for many years (I think they are so awesome ) and am considering dishing out the cash for one...

I really have ZERO knowledge of 3D Printing workflow, so am an utter newb in this respect.
So really, with this thread I am reaching out to anyone who has experience with using C4D as their main 3D package, having created 3D Prints from models created in C4D.

Any words of wisdom you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Any potential pitfalls (ala - Oh if you're gunna buy one, you wanna make SURE it has 'X', and avoid 'Y' like the plague!)... That sorta thing.
Any reccomendations in terms of actual printers to buy (right now I've been looking at Ebay and think I'll just purchase one from there, but maybe you have better suggestions).
And any other tidbits of information you can give really!

Looking forward to your responses!
Thanks

As i know our forum leader - Björn Dirk Marl aka Srek has experence with http://my.bonkers.de/index.php/3d-printing or http://merlin-hotend.de
Ask him

i'd be interested in peoples experiences of 3d printing via c4d also.

Creating models for 3d-printing with c4d works very well. The university I'm working at part-time has a ZPrinter 650 (unfortunately prized a bit over usual hobbyists budget) I'm in charge of. I create models with C4D that are needed for classes or student projects. Additionally, I prepare models in C4D for printing that were originally created by students in different programs (AutoCad, Vectorworks, SketchUp). I have all the tools I need for that in C4D. Before printing, I do a final check in ZEditPro.

Here are some basic rules that I usually follow:

- prepare the model in scale (same size and units the physical model will have), this makes it much easier to check if every part of the object is thick enough for printing

- every object needs a volume and has to be watertight

- no gaps between objects, no two polygons in the same position, objects may overlap/intersect each other

- use Mesh Check in c4d R16, very helpful information there - eliminate all the errors/warnings shown by Mesh Check

- parts that need to have different colors need to be separate objects, working with selections doesn't work (this might be a limitation of our printer and printing software)

- export VRML 2 for colored objects (for monochrome models, STL or FBX are also fine). I haven't worked yet with bitmap textures, only with simple materials using the color channel of basic C4D-materials. Testing bitmap textures is on my to-do-list though.


Here's an example (Porto di Ripetta in Rome):







cu
Matthias

very nice.
how many parts is that model?

This model has 4 parts. You can see the gaps between the three parts on the ground, each one approx. 375x240mm large. The large building on the left had to be printed separatedly due to it's height, it is standing on the base model. Total height (base+building) is 230mm, and our printer can "only" print max. 381x254x203mm.

All parts are hollow to save material, wall thickness is 4mm on large parts, 3mm on smaller parts, some details have less than 1mm.

cu
Matthias

I have a UP Plus 2 and it prints fine from C4D R15 and R16. Just export to .stl and print away with the UP software.

Hi

I have Replicator 2 and i made all models with Cinema4D without problems.
Of course you need to make a model with correct normals orientation and free from all geometry problems that can create problems to the Slicers.

Currently i use to slice the Makerbot Desktop, Photoshop and Simplify 3D.

here some my designs made with cinema4D and Zbrush (my son).

http://www.thingiverse.com/RenatoT/about

I have an Ultimaker and Ultimaker 2. Cinema4D is a very good companion with it. However learning how to model for 3D printing is something you need to learn through experience. The way of thinking that it can print anything is not going to help. Using a little inventiveness makes it very possible though.

For inspiration I always check the "Ultimaker show your prints" forum thread.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index....r-latest-print/

If you are going to use any of the common slicing software (Slic3r, Skeinforge, Kisslicer) use mm as scene and export unit to get a match in dimensions.
Meshcheck (R16 feature) is extremely helpfull to make sure the geometry is ok for printing.
I can't give you much buying advice for printers since i build my own.

hi renato

is the black plastic really durable? (the drum stick holder and the holder for C800) and is that nut cracker really strong enough and was a model you made?

that's great if so, i got into some 3d model stuff like in the very beginning and it was just not strong enough for anything other then a prototype to hold gently...

do you recommend the makerbot replicator 2?

very interesting!

dann

Hi Dann

This plastic, PLA is not bad. After the print, something change after some hours... but at last you can fill the object from 0% to 100% so the objects work as expected.

The Nutcracker is designed in Cinema 4D by me. It work very good.

All things there are modeled in cinema 4d or zbrush by my son Andrea http://andreatarabella.blogspot.com.es/

Replicator 2 is good printer.. even if is not cheap. I think that the good of this printer is the Slicer that make, for me, the best raft, easier to remove without problems and the print result is very good.

All printers are made in the same way The difference is the rendering, the sliced file.

As i told, i have also photoshop cc (very good supports in printing) and Simplify3D, the faster one with very good features.. but bad raft.

Do you still have the renderfarm?

I would suggest that if you're looking into a printer don't corner yourself with a PLA only printer, so many new materials are coming out, nilons, wood based, rubbery materials, ABS has this great adventage over PLA it can be varnished easily into high gloss by letting the printed pieces sit in a pot with a bit of acetone at the bottom, you get smooth parts!

PLA is of limited use. It is hard, sometimes even brittle, but becomes soft even at low heat (70°C will make it pliable). On the other hand, it prints easily, a very good beginners material.
ABS is harder to print but all around a better material for all mechanical purposes.
Nylon/Polyamid is tough as nails, but is always a little bit elastic and can be hard to print.
Elastic materials can be used for amazing stuff, but depending on the extruder they are not the easiest to print.
There is a lot to learn, the reprap community offers a lot of information and help

Hi, yes there are some plastics better PLA but is the easier to print without any toxic (relative) emission. The other plastics, Nylon, Abs or other need a hot platform and some as the ABS closed printer to prevent toxic emission in the environment.