Getting started with sculpting

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  09 September 2003
can i buy this Super Sculpey in italy?
and what is better: sculpey or cernit?
So you get NOTHING! You LOSE! Good DAY sir!
  09 September 2003
I have only used Super Sculpey and Fimo. I find that both have their benefits. But I will only recommend Sculpey to someone who is just beginning. It is the easiest to work with, and bakes very well, with little or no smell.
It can be very useful to bake small parts seperately first, and then put them into you Maquette.

Also, I have found, you can wrap delicate parts (like wings and hair) with a small shield of aluminium foil before baking and this will help prevent them from burning or discoloration when in the oven.

Sculpey will take a far amount of time to air dry. Ive got sculpey that is still soft after two years.
"Don't worry about the world coming to an end today.
It's already tomorrow in Australia."
---- Charles Schultz

Low - Poly Batman in Maya

Tiamat - The World Dragon (Maquette)

Online Tutorial: Character Rigging for Maya

  09 September 2003
I don't know if this has been posted b4, but it is well worth posting a second time.
"Don't worry about the world coming to an end today.
It's already tomorrow in Australia."
---- Charles Schultz

Low - Poly Batman in Maya

Tiamat - The World Dragon (Maquette)

Online Tutorial: Character Rigging for Maya

  09 September 2003
"Orc" walkthrough tutorial. kind of cool. i recomend downloading the zip file.
  11 November 2003
WWW.BONYTO.COM Don't be Evil!

  12 December 2003
gotta bake

TetsuoShima- Yes, clay is an excellent way to get better at 3D modeling. Knowing and studing surfaces, feeling them, is a great way to improve your digital modeling technique.

As far as I know, if your using normal Sculpty you need to oven dry the stuff.

Second, Sculpty is good, but expensive, and detail is not as easy to acheve in sculpty as it is in your water based clays, the stuff taken from the ground. Water based clay is cheap too, you can pay $0.25-$1.50 per lb. for water based clay. Were as with Sculpty you could pay up to $10.00 per lb.

WARNING though. I belive you need a Kilm to bake the water out of water based clay with. I could be wrong, its been awhile. You need to let the clay set to air dry until it is nice and hard, then you put it in the kilm. After the kilm, you can put you glaze on it. Then you put it into the kilm again to bake the glaze.
I don't have any kilm prices on hand right now. But I would definitly look into the prices of a kilm before you buy two hundred pounds of clay.

RESOURCES: I don't know who mentioned going to a community college (sorry), but that is a great idea, for a place to find kilms, or if you know any high school art teachers, that would also be a great person to talk to, to ask about using their kilm.

Like he also said, he looked into classes at the community college, definitly do that if you have time.
Classes to look for:
Modeling (make sure its with clay though)
Wheel Work (normaly used to make pots and vasses and other tall circular objects

Even if you can't take the class, you could ask about using their kilm if they have one.

I can't stress it enough. Model in real 3D!! Even if you think your clay work isn't any good, it helps improve your modeling abilty so much.
  12 December 2003
For those who have experience with clay modeling, are there any DVDs that you can recommend? I'm mostly interested in figure sculpture for monsters, fantasy, and sci-fi. Thank you in advance.
  12 December 2003
don't forget

when you venture in to the world of sculpture that clay/sculpy is not your only material... you can use wood, metal, etc.... and what's totally cool is that once you get the model all set up in the "real" world you can use d-sculptor and similar type tools to bring it back in to the 3d world to tweak it... and then use 3d->real sculpture type places like , , who use stuff like and to make the model "real" again... and then used the tweaked model to make a plaster mold which you can then use to make multiples... of course some of those steps could be bipassed, but it shows you that there is a LOT of possibilities out there and an entire toy making area that a lot of 3d modellers have not really realized or explored in the past...
I'm in the process of uploading a TON of textures and stock photos to Turbosquid. Do a search for author: mastermesh at
Http:// or just click the link in this sig and it'll automatically do the search for you. Most photos go for $3.50 USD.
However, if you want a REAL DEAL go to where you can get the same jpg files on cd for a lot cheaper per photo than if you bought them on Turbosquid. Jeff Thomann's 2002 Master Collection: Volume 1 has over 4000 of those photos on turbosquid and the entire cd is only $18.99 USD! That's a savings of several grand.
  12 December 2003 sissies. Get casteline. Its what mcfarlane toys uses. Its wax, and it kicks sculpey's ass. No need for crappy wireframes cuz it supports its own weight. Imagine that.
  01 January 2004
for those using super sculpey (my first choice.. still need to try casteline) here's a tip for baking.
instead of baking your sculpt in the oven, use a heat gun. i have a stanley heat stripper.. it's like an industrial-strength hair dryer. it comes with different attachments to direct the heatflow. Be very careful when using a heatgun! they get extremely hot near the tip, also try using something to hld your piece with while baking. turn it frequently to get even baking.
the benefit of using a heat gun is that you can progressively bake layers onto the sculpt. if you were to put the sculpey in the oven over and over it would burn and discolor. the heat gun allows you to control the amount and duration of heat exposure.. so if you're baking a new layer, the layer beneath won't get nearly as hot and won't bake any more.

i picked up this tip a few years ago while reading an interview with Randy Bowen... i tried it and understood the first time why it's a good idea.

traditional scuplting is very underestimated in our new digital realm of models and art.. physical media aren't any less useful in enhancing your skill or learning that reading manuals and tutorials... besides, you have something YOU made that you can hold in your hand. it's a pretty nice feeling of accomplishment.

  01 January 2004
just make sure you heat gun it on lots of layers, dont try and heatgun the whole thing at the end. My friend tried that and the gun couldnt get all the way through and his sculptures slowly crumbled over time...

you can use epoxy putty from the hardware store to fix cracks that occur after you cook. if you dont bake in layers it will crack. I choose not to bake in layers because I always end up needing to fix proportions, and if its cooked underneath, im screwed. Tons o people love that method though. The cracks + wireframe + inability to hold sculpey in your hand without messing up details made me try casteline. I recommend trying it out. You gotta cast it to get a finished product though. Only downside. has a good tutorial on how to build maquettes and set up sculpey for casting.
  01 January 2004
have any good tips about molding & casting? my friend and i had been experimenting for a couple years a while back to find a cost-effective method for reproducing action figures we were working on.
i'd read about casteline and wanted to try it.. but i didn't get around to it. recently i've been wanting to take up the hobby again. (it'll help on the conceptual art of mine and my friend's tv pilot we're working on).

what i've been looking for is a material to use for casting that is like the plastics used to make most action figures (think mcfarlane and that ilk). i wanted something that didn't have to be melted down first, as i don't have an injection casting machine or the ability to cut metal molds. something that is a chemically set up casting agent.
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