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Old 05-01-2013, 11:47 PM   #31
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Yes, exactly Jaco.
I guess that we've found the problem.
I will do a cleaning, re-paste, etc. And if the problem is still there, maybe I can start thinking to buy another case+cooler... :(
 
Old 05-01-2013, 11:58 PM   #32
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Indeed, 80° is way too hot for these chips. Mine's hovering around 55° at full load with the stock cooler, in the excellent NZXT Switch 810 case. At 70° the motherboard is set to shut down Windows into hibernation, but keep the fans spinning until the temperature reaches 50° and the user initiates it again with mouse or keyboard input. But my FX-8120 hasn't hit 70° since first installation and mobo/driver setup...

You may consider a closed-loop liquid cooler, perhaps a 120mm one would fit in your HTPC case? If you're going to do heavy rendering, you need the right tools for the job! That cooler you've shown really won't cut the mustard, no matter how well it's seated.
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Old 05-02-2013, 12:10 AM   #33
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Well, initially I was struggling around trying to fit a powerful system on a smaller case (due to the fact that I need often to travel around and having everything setted on a HTPC small case can help me to put the computer on a suitcase for an airplane trip....).

After a lot of research, I've found that the Shuriken was good enough for my case (size and efficiency match my necessities). Of course is not a wonderful cooler, but with the necessity to fit a small case was pretty enough...
...until I started these huge renders and problems begins!

Basically, as I said, I can try to clean, re-paste, etc the cooler and see if something change.
Otherwise I will buy a new powerful cooler and larger case, keeping the old small one just for travelling...
 
Old 05-02-2013, 12:16 AM   #34
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Yep, gotta keep that sucker cool enough! I'm using a little A10 quad-core for my TV-PC, works really well for most things, and runs quiet and cool. No real need for a separate GPU unless you're really heavy into gaming, does great at 1080p for most games.
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Old 05-02-2013, 01:43 AM   #35
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You don't need water cooling, that's nonsense. Make sure the case fans are blowing in logical directions (half in, half out). Like Jaco said, check that the heatsink is seated properly and has thermal compound between the CPU and the heatsink. Double check that all fans are actually spinning, if they are all spinning and blowing in logical directions you might need faster fans or more fans if the case has room for them. Also the airflow outside the case is just as important as the airflow inside the case. For example if you have it in a cabinet with a closed back that's just asking for trouble with overheating, the case should have open and flowing air all around it.
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:43 AM   #36
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I don't see how a viable, inexpensive, and ultimately excellent solution could be "nonsense", Olson, but sense means different things to different people! The point in that suggestion was that, depending on the case he's using, it could be more viable to go with a closed-loop cooler since he's got limited vertical space to install a more potent heatsink/fan cooler. With a closed-loop, he could mount the radiator parallel with the mobo elsewhere in the case, and the CPU connections aren't very tall at all. Again, it depends on the case. - mine is an A/V component style case and has plenty of room for the full-size air cooler. His seems a bit smaller or more portable, possibly.

But again, that cooler he's got won't be saving the day for an FX chip. I wouldn't even use that one on an A-series chip, it just doesn't have the surface area to do the job. But sometimes of course, all you've gotta do is dust the fans out, and you'll get back to square one at least!
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:28 AM   #37
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If you want to change to water cooling the rest of the thermal design must match. You can't just replace the CPU cooler with a water cooled system. In most cases the CPU cooler also cools the voltage regulators around the CPU and other parts of the mainboard, you have to take care they are still beeing cooled suffictenly if you remove the CPU fan and replace it with water cooling.
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:24 AM   #38
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If I change, I think I'm gonna go for:

cooler
- Noctua NH-D14

case
- Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl

Then I can keep my Shuriken and HTPC case for travelling or to build a TV/PC.

So basically I wanna check first if everything is working properly, otherwise I'm gonna buy the 2 things above!

What do you think?

Last edited by chaosmonger : 05-02-2013 at 09:03 AM.
 
Old 05-02-2013, 08:33 AM   #39
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Anyway, here a screenshot with Hardware Monitor, before changing anything:

 
Old 05-02-2013, 01:10 PM   #40
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The fans are throttled back despite everything running very hot. You can disable fan throttling in the BIOS so they run full speed.
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:03 PM   #41
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Olson is wise. Make sure AMD Cool & Quiet is running, and perhaps update your BIOS and motherboard drivers for Windows? Your fan should be screaming under full load, and you should be able to hear it ramping up as the temperature increases.
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:11 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfernalDarkness
I don't see how a viable, inexpensive, and ultimately excellent solution could be "nonsense", Olson, but sense means different things to different people!


By nonsense I mean it should work fine with the stock heatsink and if it isn't the problem is elsewhere (like throttled fans). Sure, water cooling is "better" but certainly not necessary to get the machine working normally.
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:22 PM   #43
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Understood, Olson. But he's not using the stock cooler, rather that low-profile guy. Still, the issue has been isolated to software at least. Hopefully that cooler can get him back down in the 50°-60° range and "back in business".
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:02 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfernalDarkness
Understood, Olson. But he's not using the stock cooler, rather that low-profile guy. Still, the issue has been isolated to software at least. Hopefully that cooler can get him back down in the 50°-60° range and "back in business".


Ahh, I didn't catch the thin heatsink. I don't see the point in that heatsink though, it's only 4mm shorter than the stock heatsink. If the extra 4mm really is a problem then there's not enough room to use either of those heatsinks anyway. The case fans aren't helping regardless of what heatsink is being used since they are all running at like 1,600 RPM instead of 4,000+ RPM like most fans would normally do. Or the case fans might be configured improperly (like all of them blowing in and none blowing out). Hopefully the original poster gets it figured out.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:08 PM   #45
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Yes, it's kind of a complex topic since we don't know what his case looks/acts like or several other variables. My suggestion for a closed-loop liquid guy may have been unfounded, it's just the natural direction to go instead of the monstrous NH-D14, which renders the machine practically immobile (or you'll crack your mobo!). Here's what my TV-PC looks like, so I was thinking how to best cool it if the stock cooler wasn't cutting the mustard:





chaosmonger: I think when you mentioned portability, you were likely using a much smaller case than this one? I really think your issue is software-based, and your fans should all be reacting quickly and probably not-silently to the CPU heating up. But regardless, good luck, and if you need further help don't hesitate to ask!
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