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  07 July 2014
Originally Posted by Srek: Don't bother with immersion, it will not work as you expect. The best results so far i got using hot vapor. Depending on the item you can get a smooth finish as if it were injection molded.

Yeah from what I've heard the results aren't as good. I would still think you could spray a few light mists of acetone on the print from a bottle, let it air dry and it would turn out decent. I did see a video yesterday of someone using an aerosol can with an acetone base that was meant for cleaning / degreasing for smoothing, but of course I can't find it now, and I forgot the brand. Looking on amazon, I did find these -
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CAJB8IC...=I2PJ9MWP6XCL0Y
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047CWMEO...=I3ILJ574BAIK87
http://www.amazon.com/Accelerator-A..._rhf_se_p_img_7
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LB8MXK...=I3MQ6X4SAVW93J

Originally Posted by DeanPunchard: I find cold vapour to be much easier, and gives better results, but does take longer.


That cold vapor method sounds interesting. How many hours does it take with that? At least you could maybe set a timer. Maybe you could spray the print very lightly before the cold vapor method to speed up the process,. or you could maybe set the jar under some warm lights. From what I've seen, taller pieces are indeed more problematic with vapor methods, because of the vapor having to rise. You might have to somehow suspend the print upside down and lightly smooth it.

Besides acetone I've also heard that you could use a heat gun for smoothing,

Last edited by Ian31R : 07 July 2014 at 06:49 PM.
 
  07 July 2014
Originally Posted by SheepFactory: Does anyone have a Form 1+ printer? I have been looking at printers trying to decide which one to get and that seems to be the best of the bunch as far as quality goes.

I would say the B9 is better, the Form1 print settings are very poor, along with their materials. People have done lots of different tests with materials and there's some amazing results there. The new one also has a higher resolution projector than before so it can print even higher detail and smaller objects. The only downsides of the B9 is the build volume at higher resolutions, and the PDMS coating on the bottom of the vat which has to be replaced from time to time(a bit more often than you'd like).
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  08 August 2014
Originally Posted by Ian31R: That cold vapor method sounds interesting. How many hours does it take with that? At least you could maybe set a timer. Maybe you could spray the print very lightly before the cold vapor method to speed up the process,. or you could maybe set the jar under some warm lights. From what I've seen, taller pieces are indeed more problematic with vapor methods, because of the vapor having to rise. You might have to somehow suspend the print upside down and lightly smooth it.

Besides acetone I've also heard that you could use a heat gun for smoothing,


I find just leaving it for a few hours works well. If you open a bottle of acetone (or as I use, nail polish remover), you can immediately smell the vapour. I use glass jars and bowls so I can see how it's doing.
Also to speed things up, you can add wicks, like tissue paper lined up the inside of the jars, which draw the acetone up, without it touching the print.

Speed isn't everything.
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  08 August 2014
Originally Posted by DaddyMack: I've got a little creative project printing and painting psychedelic masks
https://www.facebook.com/Maskadelic

That is really cool Rob. At first I couldn't believe you got all those colors in a print and then.. oh yeah, painting, you can do that.

How durable are those tiny lattices?
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  08 August 2014
I am doing mini figures proposals for work.

Here are some of the work I have done so far.




Tesla



Carver and Edison Printed at a lower resolution..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...zps7f8b92ca.jpg
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  08 August 2014
Nice work, Roberto! Are these printed in house?

Here's my first 3d print done through Sculpteo. It measures approximately 20 cm in height.



Not sure how much it would cost to get a figure printed at this size through them, since I won this through a competition.

I really want to invest in a 3d printer, but I'm holding off for now as I wait for the tech to advance a bit further. With that said, I have seen some very impressive 3d prints from the Form1 and the Ultimaker 2. Also, on the horizon there's the XFab from DWS Lab which looks promising: http://dwslab.com/xfab/
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Last edited by ChewyPixels : 08 August 2014 at 04:12 PM.
 
  08 August 2014
Originally Posted by RobertoOrtiz: I am doing mini figures proposals for work.

Here are some of the work I have done so far.



Nice Roberto!

Which printer did you use for those? And what is that material called?


edit: Does anyone have experience with Tinkerine 3d printers?

Last edited by SheepFactory : 08 August 2014 at 06:16 AM.
 
  08 August 2014
I am outsourcing the printing to Shapeways.
The weird thing is that I found that I can do really cheap 3D printing on high end Markerbot machines at my local Library.Since there is interest in my office into 3d Printing I am doing a pitch to my bosses to get me one. And it never hurt to mave a bunch of STL files just in case.
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  08 August 2014
Originally Posted by RobertoOrtiz: I am outsourcing the printing to Shapeways.
The weird thing is that I found that I can do really cheap 3D printing on high end Markerbot machines at my local Library.Since there is interest in my office into 3d Printing I am doing a pitch to my bosses to get me one. And it never hurt to mave a bunch of STL files just in case.



Shapeways is great but I need a printer to quickly test scale and see how it actually looks before sending it to shapeways. It is probably more feasible for you guys in states since you don't have to pay customs on top of the shapeways printing costs like we do in Canada. :(
 
  08 August 2014
Originally Posted by WyattHarris: That is really cool Rob. At first I couldn't believe you got all those colors in a print and then.. oh yeah, painting, you can do that.

How durable are those tiny lattices?


Thanks Wyatt, having loads of fun, the really thin parts are a bit fragile but the shapeways wsf material holds up to its name in most of them. I have a series of design rules I've developed for strength etc and run each design thru the rules before uploading. They last thru a few solid parties
Here's a vid of durability
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...81760607&type=3
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  08 August 2014
Back in 2004 I had a tile design 3d printed and then after much casting, pressing, glazing and firing, the finished tiles were installed in the kitchen backsplash.



Recently I got back into some 3d printing with some custom model parts I uploaded to Shapeways and I am working on a set of new parts for the old AMT Galileo Shuttlecraft kit that I will also have up on shapeways.
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  08 August 2014
Loving this thread!......it's such a exciting time for us 3D people at the moment with this new technology.

It's been great seeing what folks have done with it so far.
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  08 August 2014
has anyone had any experience with these? http://cubify.com/en/Cube

looks like a cheaper alternative to the maker bot
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  08 August 2014
I've been looking into it all.....it's quite expensive this whole thing isn't it?.... O__O
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Last edited by mjdowswell : 08 August 2014 at 12:47 PM.
 
  08 August 2014
Originally Posted by mjdowswell: I've been looking into it all.....it's quite expensive this whole thing isn't it?.... O__O


it's pretty pricey, try making your object hollow to keep costs down

when I make something for shapeways I use zbrush to create a shell of the object
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