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Old 04-16-2013, 12:22 AM   #16
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If it's a for fun project, do whatever, why not
Don't expect the costs to be low though.
Compared to a few hundred bucks for 3D coat or ZBrush and a bamboo, a few models in, especially in the learning phase, practical can turn expensive.

Things like cork and chalks are the same as armatures for clay. Weight is an important factor in sculpting, very important, and when you do dioramas in example it's unthinkable to do it with a full pour. Even if it held together, and it wouldn't, it'd end up weighting a lot, too much to move, and be very fragile, so you normally buy cork and balsa, cut it to the sections of what you want to sculpt, glue it together, plaster it in wet paper as a second pass and mold it, and then last you use epoxies, chalk and clays for the finer details.

Armatures for characters serve the same purpose, to give you a posable and easy to put together structure to build upon.

Hard surfaces are a different deal, and wood is often chosen for how it can be tooled into submission first and respond well to fine polishing, but the fact it can hold together at massive volumes is also key, compared to clay or chalk, which in a massive volume will never cook properly, not to mention be quite weighty.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:00 AM   #17
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Yeah there are endless methods for making sculptures. I recently watched videos of styrofoam sculptures from multiple blocks and from expanding foam. I recently came accross this guy's channel that have some interesting techniques - http://www.youtube.com/user/ThePlas...r/videos?view=0 Also this guy's channel looks like good reference for sculpting - http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIB...w/videos?view=0

One method I remember that you can keep clay light is by layering the inside with foil. The hard surface sculpting I'm really amazed by is the 1:1 scale car sculpting teams do, I wouldn't even know where to start with that. I mainly want to stick with clay, because I want to be able to reuse it, and because I don't want hundreds of sculptures laying around my small apartment.

The largest I plan on scanning would fit in a 2 foot sphere. Any larger, and whatever rig you are using to scan wouldn't be able to balance on a tripod, which I want to make my rig mountable to. If I want larger sculpts I'll just use the photogrammetry method with multiple images.

Last edited by Ian31R : 04-16-2013 at 01:09 AM.
 
Old 04-16-2013, 01:19 AM   #18
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As someone who keeps a fair amount of roma plastilina around my computer(and under my fingernails at times) its a pretty good long lasting clay. I have some going back to the mid 80s--its still usable.

The downside is it has sulfur in it. Not a big deal if you never plan to make molds but other clays like jaymac and chavant dont have it and when you make molds it can become an issue.
And you can smooth it with rubbing alcohol or water--but if you use the former too much it can cause crystalization.

But i prefer it to sculpey products because it can be more firm in the strongest grade than super sculpey and it is reusable.

There's also casteline (sic), used by toy makers a lot. Its kind of a greenish colour but might have a bit of translucency if I remember correctly. You heat it up and it gets like butter, or can be rock hard when cool.

One time someone I knew wanted to get a can of paint that matched the colour of roma plastilina and took a sample to be scanned in a paint store. I was surprised it worked.
 
Old 04-16-2013, 01:59 AM   #19
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One thing to keep in mind if your going to be scanning the model using a laser based system.
Any undercuts or portions that are blocked from direct line of sight of the laser will be blank.
You may have to build the clay model in sections.
You will have to do multiple scans and then stitch the scans together.
The work flow will probably end up with you doing a re-topology of the scan data to get a usable model and then transfer or sculpt back in the high res details from the scan data.
 
Old 04-16-2013, 04:49 AM   #20
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Another thing to mention. Not to rain on your parade or anything but taking a scanned model and making it into a usable/animatable/deformable geo is often a pain. Many artists will just use the scan or reference photos of the model and just model it from scratch. It's just easier then trying to use the actual scanned geo. Point clouds are just so slow and laborious to use.
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:08 PM   #21
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Thanks for the replies guys. Yeah I'm sure whatever scanning system I use, the topology will probably end up bad. I assumed I would have to retopologize all my scans. Its not a big deal since retopo has gotten so easy these days, using mudbox, zbrush, 3d-coat, even inside 3ds max, that its not a big deal. I remember seeing a thread on here before about if it was cheating retopologizing models, and I think the consensus was that it was pretty much the same as tracing 2d drawings. And its getting easier and easier to do that.

BTW does anyone have any general tutorial links or youtube channels for general sculpting techniques or maybe even 3d sculpting from scanned models?
 
Old 04-16-2013, 02:08 PM   #22
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