View Full Version : Futuristic revolver -- with new textures

12 December 2006, 12:54 AM

Here's my newly textured energy weapon. It's my idea of a handgun for a detective in the year 2230 (or thereabouts :) )

1612 triangles, 1024 x 1024 texture

It still needs a bumpmap, specular, self-illumination, all that good stuff, but what do you think so far?

12 December 2006, 01:07 AM
looking good. I was gonna say it doesn't look shiny enough for a 'futuristic weapon', but you haven't done spec yet. Only thing with the model is that the handle looks a little tough to hold on to at that angle. It's also a bit short. Looking good, I rally like the revolver energy casing.

12 December 2006, 01:21 AM
Thanks monkeynutz, I'll try rotating the handle a bit, but I was trying to make it a bit like one of those "dustbuster" shaped phasers from Star Trek TNG -- I imagined you'd hold it like a cross between like a gun and a flashlight.

12 December 2006, 08:09 AM
the things that make it look uncomfortable are the thickness, no one has hands those wide, and the odd bolt/protrusion right where the index finger would rest in order to be able to pull te trigger. but the rest looks nice.

12 December 2006, 04:26 PM
I second the previous post, think more about what that gun would feel like to fire ? If its super powerful, that hand grip position would not offer much support for the recoil. I once made a gun of similar time line and style, and added a wrist support protruding from where the firing pin is, much like one of those massive catapults (black widows I believe theyre called) I'll try and find a picture now ...

... *google image search in progress* ...

hope you see what I mean.

I'd also think about using photographed textures more, if you're using a big enough map and the appropriate engine.


01 January 2007, 06:08 AM
Hi, I'm back! I tweaked the handle a bit so it's thinner and longer, and i changed the position of the hinge/bolt assembly (Gawd i cant belive i didnt catch that before.... Here's a pic: (

Chillipunk: Sorry, this is a dumb question, but where would the firing pin be? I know zip about guns. I searched "black widow" and i saw the catapult that you described, but i am not sure how the wrist support is supposed to be worn... would you also happen to have a pic of the gun that you made, just to get an idea? Thanks.

01 January 2007, 06:24 AM
Well, you have an ok base color map, now finish it up with a spot on normal map and spec map and you'll have a decent gun made from believable materials. As for the mesh, the handle still looks a bit thick to me, but it may work for now.


01 January 2007, 01:47 PM
Firing pin would be inside of the gun. The hammer, which is the part that actually moves when the gun fires, lines up so when it closes, the part of the hammer that contacts the round is lined up with the inside of the barrel. Of course, if this really IS a futuristic gun, could always say it has an electronic ignition system or something, given the glow inside the cylinder, just going to guess it doesn't fire traditional bullets (so maybe you don't really need a hammer). Something about the model though, it looks "soft", something which probably could be helped with bump mapping, or adding some worn edges where metal pieces meet. The handle still looks kinda thick, and the trigger guard/trigger look a bit cramped. Always ask for this, but I think if you posted a wireframe view, could get a better look at the actual geometry and offer some more usefull commentary.

Best of luck, looking good so far

01 January 2007, 02:22 AM
Maybe the handle isn't too big, JasonH, maybe the barrel's too small! So there!:p

Sorry, had a bit of a 5-year old moment there....

I did make the trigger guard a bit less cramped, and I've added a spec map.Here's a pic with the bog-standard 3-point lighting setup:

And here's a wireframe pic:

Some of those diagonal lines in the wire frame pic, like on the hinge and the upper part, aren't really there in the geometry.

Here are the color map and spec map so far: ( (

Yeah, i still have to do bump mapping. If i do a normal map, would i still have to bother with a bump? or vice versa?

01 January 2007, 04:22 AM
Normal maps are more advanced bump maps; you only need one or the other. A bump map only includes information about height, whereas a normal map uses a bunch of different colors to encode all sorts of geometry information.

01 January 2007, 10:40 AM
you shouldn't paint specular highlights and light with direction into your diffuse map. and spec map too for that matter. diffuse map should be diffuse color only (except maybe for an ambient occlusion pass), leave the rest to specular and normal map. good luck. :)

02 February 2007, 12:23 AM
Well, it's starting to look close to done. I re-did the ammo section cuz i wasnt happy with it, and the spec and bump maps seem to be ok. Here's the latest pic:

And a closeup of the re-done ammo section:

I made a little movie of the model spinning around to see what the spec and bump would look like when its moving. Does anyone know how to post something like that here?

I was also wondering. Notice the 2 large screws, how jagged the notches look when i put a bump map on? It's the same resolution and everything, but why does it look jagged like that?

02 February 2007, 12:21 AM
Notches on the screws look like aliasing when you make a diagonal line in photoshop. Ways to fix this are to either increase the resolution (looks like you could make that spot larger in your texture sheet, though i'd save resolution for adding detail to detailed spots, rather than smoothing out a screw), use a smooth or blur tool (which would ultimately squish the whole normal look, so it would look like a scoop taken out of a squishy cake), or, the method I use, would be to just paint the notch in the screw straight up or straight down holding shift in photoshop. If the screws are actually modeled in, you can then either rotate the UVs or the geometry if you want the notch to be diagonal. Its a little tough to see, but it looks like the screws are modeled into the plate they're attached to. If you separate them out, and just have them intersecting the plate, you can save on geometry, and also separate the screw itself out on the UV map (and make one screw just the mirror of the other on the texture sheet). Cutting out all the cuts in that face should also make it easier to apply the smoothing group for hard edges. You should also get some nice clean edges around the screws by detaching them as elements and moving the UVs away, since you wont get the aliasing or blurring around the edges either.

Hope that helps.

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