ZeroNeuro
08-03-2003, 02:47 AM
There are several sources available on the subject of lighting digitally. Amaan, Jeremy Birn, and many others have made great resources detailing the art of lighting a scene. I thought that it would be cool to give a few tips on the subject just to add to what has been said. (Also someone asked me if I could do this.)
There are many types of lights; area, spot, point, ambient, direct, indirect, and directional. Some of these are more useful for certain situations than in others. For this small write up, I am just going to explain the uses rather than the types.
Key light: This is the main light source in your scene. It is the light that casts a specular highlight and does the majority of your light work.
Fill light: These lights are used to balance the objects in the scene and add to the look of the lighting. Typically, they should not cast a specular.
Side light or Kick light: This represents part of the environment itself. As such, it is used to add a more dynamic balance.
Rim light: A Rim light is use to make the silhouette of the objects stand out more clearly.
Bounce light: These lights are used to fake the effect of light bouncing off of objects.
Ground Bounce: Almost the same as a bounce light but it represents the light bouncing up from the ground.
Lighting a scene digitally, is a lot like lighting a scene on a theatrical stage. A lot of light is exaggerated to portray mood. It is more important to get the right mood than it is to get hyper-realism, because in CG, realism sometimes looks too dull. I know that does not make much sense, but if you think about lighting a scene as painting colors you can get a pretty good idea of what works, and what does not.
Where to start: How you start to light your scene is a personal choice. I tend to prefer to start out with trying to get the environment lights first, and then add the keylights. This way, I can see what I am doing with the lower intensity lights. Once you add a keylight, you may not be able to see the rest as clearly. Then, once the keys are in place you can add rims, kicks, bounces, and more fills if you need them. I also prefer to light individual areas of the scene separately in case I need to change something later. Effects should be the last thing you do with your lighting unless it is the central part to the lighting you wish to achieve.
Shadows: Shadows are an integral part of lighting. Just remember that shadows are light ogres… they have layers like onions. :D When you set up the shadows, just make sure that they are used to enhance your lighting, not dominate it.
Shadow color is also important. I hardly ever use a black shadow. The only time I used a black shadow is when I want a really dark and cool scene. In the real world, a shadow’s color is the exact opposite color of the light that casts it. So, for instance, if you have an orange light. The shadow should be a very dark value of blue. Shadow color is also influenced by environment. When you start to color match light and shadow colors just remember to keep an eye on the saturation levels.
Gradients or Color Ramps: Ramps are a great tool when it comes to light. On a Kelvin scale, light color shifts as the intensity increases or decreases. Ramps are a nice thing to use if you have a high falloff from a light and want to portray the ambiance of a decreasing intensity.
In the end, do not be afraid to be extravagant. Play with the lighting on a scene and try out extremes. To sum this up, just be courageous enough to stretch the limits of the lighting in a scene. Not only does this make for better looking images, it makes lighting more enjoyable.
Cheers!
Ritchie Roberts
ZeroNeuro Arts Ltd.
I may do a much longer article on the subject when I get time, in the future.
The Kelvin Scale:
http://www.zeroneuro.com/recipe/kelvinscale.jpg
CANDLE FLAME 1500
INCANDESCENT HOUSE LAMPS 2500-3000
60-WATT,GAS FILLED,TUNGSTEN-FILAMENT LAMP 2800
100-WATT, TUNGSTEN-FILAMENT LAMP 2865
500-WATT, TUNGSTEN-FILAMENT LAMP 2950
1000-WATT, TUNGSTEN-FILAMENT LAMP 3000
500-WATT PROJECTION LAMP 3175
3200 DEGREE KELVIN FLOODLAMP 3200
AMBER FLASHLAMP (EXCEPT 25C) 3200
R32 REFLECTOR FLOOD 3200
ZIRCONIUM CONCENTRATED ARC 3200
WHITE,NO.1,NO.2, OR NO.4 FLOODLAMP,REFLECTOR FLOOD 3400
REFLECTOR FLOODS (EXCEPT R32) 3400
WARM,WHITE,FLUORESCENT LAMP 3500
SHREDDED-FOIL, CLEAR FLASHLAMP 3800
COOL,WHITE FLUORESCENT LAMP 4500
DAYLIGHT(BLUE)FLOODLAMP 4800
WHITE-FLAME CARBON ARC 5000
M2B FLASHLAMP 5100
MEAN NOON SUNLIGHT AT WASHINGTON D.C. 5400
HIGH-INTENSITY SUN ARC 5550
DIRECT SUNLIGHT IN SUMMER MAY RISE TO, OR EARLY OR LATE ON A WINTER DAY MAY DROP BELOW, 5800
DIRECT SUNLIGHT BETWEEN 10 AM-3PM (AVERAGE) 6000
BLUE FLASHLAMP 6000
DAYLIGHT FLUORESCENT LAMP 6500
SUNLIGHT PLUS LIGHT FROM CLEAR SKY AT NOON MAY RISE TO 6500
LIGHT FROM OVERCAST SKY 6800-7000
HIGH-SPEED ELECTRONIC FLASHTUBES 7000
LIGHT FROM HAZY OR SMOKY SKY 7500-8400
LIGHT FROM CLEAR BLUE SKY 10000-27000
There are many types of lights; area, spot, point, ambient, direct, indirect, and directional. Some of these are more useful for certain situations than in others. For this small write up, I am just going to explain the uses rather than the types.
Key light: This is the main light source in your scene. It is the light that casts a specular highlight and does the majority of your light work.
Fill light: These lights are used to balance the objects in the scene and add to the look of the lighting. Typically, they should not cast a specular.
Side light or Kick light: This represents part of the environment itself. As such, it is used to add a more dynamic balance.
Rim light: A Rim light is use to make the silhouette of the objects stand out more clearly.
Bounce light: These lights are used to fake the effect of light bouncing off of objects.
Ground Bounce: Almost the same as a bounce light but it represents the light bouncing up from the ground.
Lighting a scene digitally, is a lot like lighting a scene on a theatrical stage. A lot of light is exaggerated to portray mood. It is more important to get the right mood than it is to get hyper-realism, because in CG, realism sometimes looks too dull. I know that does not make much sense, but if you think about lighting a scene as painting colors you can get a pretty good idea of what works, and what does not.
Where to start: How you start to light your scene is a personal choice. I tend to prefer to start out with trying to get the environment lights first, and then add the keylights. This way, I can see what I am doing with the lower intensity lights. Once you add a keylight, you may not be able to see the rest as clearly. Then, once the keys are in place you can add rims, kicks, bounces, and more fills if you need them. I also prefer to light individual areas of the scene separately in case I need to change something later. Effects should be the last thing you do with your lighting unless it is the central part to the lighting you wish to achieve.
Shadows: Shadows are an integral part of lighting. Just remember that shadows are light ogres… they have layers like onions. :D When you set up the shadows, just make sure that they are used to enhance your lighting, not dominate it.
Shadow color is also important. I hardly ever use a black shadow. The only time I used a black shadow is when I want a really dark and cool scene. In the real world, a shadow’s color is the exact opposite color of the light that casts it. So, for instance, if you have an orange light. The shadow should be a very dark value of blue. Shadow color is also influenced by environment. When you start to color match light and shadow colors just remember to keep an eye on the saturation levels.
Gradients or Color Ramps: Ramps are a great tool when it comes to light. On a Kelvin scale, light color shifts as the intensity increases or decreases. Ramps are a nice thing to use if you have a high falloff from a light and want to portray the ambiance of a decreasing intensity.
In the end, do not be afraid to be extravagant. Play with the lighting on a scene and try out extremes. To sum this up, just be courageous enough to stretch the limits of the lighting in a scene. Not only does this make for better looking images, it makes lighting more enjoyable.
Cheers!
Ritchie Roberts
ZeroNeuro Arts Ltd.
I may do a much longer article on the subject when I get time, in the future.
The Kelvin Scale:
http://www.zeroneuro.com/recipe/kelvinscale.jpg
CANDLE FLAME 1500
INCANDESCENT HOUSE LAMPS 2500-3000
60-WATT,GAS FILLED,TUNGSTEN-FILAMENT LAMP 2800
100-WATT, TUNGSTEN-FILAMENT LAMP 2865
500-WATT, TUNGSTEN-FILAMENT LAMP 2950
1000-WATT, TUNGSTEN-FILAMENT LAMP 3000
500-WATT PROJECTION LAMP 3175
3200 DEGREE KELVIN FLOODLAMP 3200
AMBER FLASHLAMP (EXCEPT 25C) 3200
R32 REFLECTOR FLOOD 3200
ZIRCONIUM CONCENTRATED ARC 3200
WHITE,NO.1,NO.2, OR NO.4 FLOODLAMP,REFLECTOR FLOOD 3400
REFLECTOR FLOODS (EXCEPT R32) 3400
WARM,WHITE,FLUORESCENT LAMP 3500
SHREDDED-FOIL, CLEAR FLASHLAMP 3800
COOL,WHITE FLUORESCENT LAMP 4500
DAYLIGHT(BLUE)FLOODLAMP 4800
WHITE-FLAME CARBON ARC 5000
M2B FLASHLAMP 5100
MEAN NOON SUNLIGHT AT WASHINGTON D.C. 5400
HIGH-INTENSITY SUN ARC 5550
DIRECT SUNLIGHT IN SUMMER MAY RISE TO, OR EARLY OR LATE ON A WINTER DAY MAY DROP BELOW, 5800
DIRECT SUNLIGHT BETWEEN 10 AM-3PM (AVERAGE) 6000
BLUE FLASHLAMP 6000
DAYLIGHT FLUORESCENT LAMP 6500
SUNLIGHT PLUS LIGHT FROM CLEAR SKY AT NOON MAY RISE TO 6500
LIGHT FROM OVERCAST SKY 6800-7000
HIGH-SPEED ELECTRONIC FLASHTUBES 7000
LIGHT FROM HAZY OR SMOKY SKY 7500-8400
LIGHT FROM CLEAR BLUE SKY 10000-27000
