WIP: Sculpey Minotaur concept

[ijinn]

Very very nice :)

[ninjacore]

wow. this is cool. at first i thought it was 3d, which made me freak out a bit, untill i read u sculpted it, which is great too.

i'm going to have a good read of your sculpting process and maybe give this a try. i've been wanting to do it for ages.

this will be sweet to see in digital 3d.

:airguitar

[kpalazov]

What an amzing piece of work Southern, at has brought me pleasure every time (8 times now) I have set eye's on it. You must be commanded highly of taking the effort and time to create the character, paying considerations to his musculature and bone structure and more imporessive..the way the skin hangs over these compoenets.....BTW...this would look awsome in ZB:)!!

I was going to ask you on some tips on how to produce work of similar nature....but you have acted with foresight and already produced an explanation:beer: My sincere thanks for this!!


Thankyou kindly for showing your work...it is an inspiration!

Kiril

[Sharky]

really impressive ... I'm waiting for the LW modeling
:applause:

[Teyon]

Cool stuff. Always wanted o try sculpting.

[DOMINICHI]

id love to give this a go. Does anyone know if I could get a model like this scanned in? How much it would be? and If the mesh would be ok for animation.

[Lordrych]

Yo nice as sculpted model............I love working with sculpy awesome job.............you should check out my Minotaur i am doing here ....................

http://www.cgtalk.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68196

I like yours because it is not a classic version of the Minotaur, like the feet aren't hooves, did you do that on purpose?

Rych

[Blacklion]

It's good to see another super sculpey user on the boards who'll post thier stuff.

He looks really good (the design is keen!!!).
:love: I'm in love with the upper torso and head.

As for a constructive crit.
I think the left tricep could flow into the bicep with a bit more subtlety. The muscle seems to terminate abrutly at that angle.
A little bit of SS could even it out without much tinkering.

Also...if you don't have a heat gun......get one. Your talent warrants it.
but if you've already got one please don't take offense.

What really stands out to me are the hamstrings / thighs area on both legs. I think they could be a bit thicker for a creature with such a massive upper body.

All n all it's pretty PHAT!

I look forward to seeing more from you.

BL

BTW
check out my maquette post from a while back

http://www.cgtalk.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61501&highlight=maquettes:

[policarpo]

OH MY GOD!!:bowdown:


you are just too amazing!:airguitar

[proton]

WOW!

[southern]

Thanks for all the comments. I really am very rusty with clay modeling but it is amazing how it all comes back to you. Polymer clay has really changed things for me.

Black lion: You are already on my `watch list` as I am totally inspired by your modeling skills. I must must say though, I don't know what a heat gun is??? can you explain so I can rush out and get one.

Thanks all.

Glen

[Joel_Longie]

Very cool southern,
Super Sculpey sculpting is so much fun, and therapeutic.

[Night]

wow i like the detail!!! great :thumbsup:

[gmask]

Originally posted by DOMINICHI
id love to give this a go. Does anyone know if I could get a model like this scanned in? How much it would be? and If the mesh would be ok for animation.

Price varies but you could expect to spend at least $600 to $1200 per model for scanning. That are various places thaqt you caould ship your model to but keep in mind that they wiull need to spray it with a neutral paint that in most cases doesn't com eover very well.

The resulting mesh is dense very dense and not friendly to say the least. You will have to remodel.. most palces will offer to do this but it is expensive.

The least expensive way to go is to take various digital stills and use them as you would in many modelling tutorials use them for reference. It is best to use a zoom lens when taking the pictures and stand as far away as you can fromt he modle this will give you more of an orthographic view of the model.

The really tricky part is reproducing the the surface detail..

If you do scan the model you can convert the surface to a lowe res version and then compare the two and create a surface normals map that in turn can be used to displace the low res model into a highly detailed version. Depending on what soft you are using there are known methods out there for doing this.

[d8ed]

you can also use a digitizing scribe like this one. the school i went to had one on the premises. afraid it wont do you much good ;)

http://www.immersion.com/products/3d/capture/overview.shtml

[Rey]

Looks cool.
Nice to see a sculpture posted. There should be a section dedicated to maquettes.

Only critique on your sculpture is that the legs seem too thin for this character. You can always correct it when you start modeling it in 3D.
:thumbsup:

[DOMINICHI]

thanks for your repies d8ed and gmask. I have to give this a go, but don't know how the hell to model something like that on a computer. Seeing things like this makes me wonder why I'm doing what I am (architectural visualization) when i could be doing really cool things like this!

[d8ed]

there's definitely demand for real sculptors in the 3D industry. so you can always stick to that.

as far as 3D modeling is concerned.. i'm afraid you'll have to start with something much simpler than this minotaur.

[Blacklion]

Hey Southern, Thanx for the kind words.

After going to your web site i was sure you used a heat gun for the finer detail on that dragon of yours. (very very nice):applause:

Instead of trying to explain what a heat gun looks like i figured a picture is worth a thousand words.

http://www.reliablepowertools.com/9758.gif
you can normally find a serviceable one for about 25/30 bucks U.S
Your local hardware store should have a good variety.

Be sure to be VERY careful with the heat settings and most importantly DO NOT keep the nozzel on one place for an extended period of time because the sculpey will begin to bubble then scorch.

I like to use a heat gun for small details that don't necessarily warrant the whole model to be re-baked.
(your minotaurs loin cloth or small touchups for example)

Good luck and keep em coming

and for the record I for one would love to see a maquette forum @ this fine community.

BL

[southern]

Blacklion...hahah..a HEAT GUN....Doh.... I have one of them in my garage already for Paint stripping.

So with Super Sculpy it is possible to heat up small areas with the Gun and re work them??

Does this scortch the clay at all?

How did you get the bark effect on your oak guy? Did you just keep working away at the clay until you had the detail?

Cheers for the advice.

Glen

[jan_muentinga]

maybe you want to take a look here: http://cube.phlatt.net/forums/spiraloid/viewtopic.php?TopicID=134

good luck

jan

[KolbyJukes]

Awesome!

We should get a thread going that contains people's maquettes/tips of modelling with super sculpey.

The links you guys posted are awesome!

-Kol

[Blacklion]

So with Super Sculpy it is possible to heat up small areas with the Gun and re work them??

Sadly it doesn't work that way (be really cool if it did)...models can be refired but they cannot be reworked unless the object still has a little give through the center. (I.E. not all the way fired in the first place)
Even then rewoking can only go so far before the part breaks so i wouln't recommed it.

However, what I meant is ....
Say for instance you have a part of your work that needs some touch up and you can solve the problem by adding thin strips or extra minute detail.
BTW
This also works for Chains, capes, long strips of hair and complemetry folds in clothing ect. ect.

To me it doesn't make sence to fire the whole piece again just to bake a small part. A quick run of the Heat gun will harden the area enough for handeling... (or completely depending on thickness)... and allow you to work trouble spots without messing up the area you've worked to get "just right".

Once again I must state.....
Be sure to be VERY careful with the heat settings and most importantly DO NOT keep the nozzel on one place for an extended period of time because the sculpey will begin to bubble then scorch.

Use a sweeping motion across the area you are working on as this will prevent the sculpey from taking on too much heat at one time.

As for how I did the "bark effect"...

I layed out carpets of sculpey and sliced into them with my tools and developed a stroking patten over the area.
Then layered them over the muscule detail and I used my heat gun to lock the areas in place till I fired it...
That way I'd be sure that the layers wouldn't sag or drop off during the long bake.

Hope that helps

BL

[southern]

HOPE IT HELPS????????

You just changed the way I use Sculpy my friend. thanks.

I missunderstood about the gun but having had it explained it seems so obvious, I can't wait to try it on a more detailed model. I'm waiting on a big order of Sculpey as it is hard to get the 8 lb blocks over here.

I want to try a beastie with hair or heavilly textured skin next.

Thanks for you help.

Glen

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