Detail WIP

[JoelOtron]

EXCELLENT!

Have you done any screw or nut threads?

Those always bewilder me.

[AdamT]

Originally posted by JoelD
EXCELLENT!

Have you done any screw or nut threads?

Those always bewilder me.

Thanks! I'm probably going to need some srcew threads, but I've been avoiding it up until now. They are a bit of a pain, but someone posted a method a while back that makes it relatively easy. He started with a subdivided plane, then selected every other row of points/edges and translated them up. Then he put the plane in a wrap or bend deformer. It's much easier than what I was doing before, which was using a helical lathe on a triangular spline.

[JoelOtron]

Paul E suggested creating a nuts and bolts generator about a year ago. Maybe he has one in the works. (?) That is actually one of the nice features in formZ--the screw generator thing. if you have formZ you can make one there I guess.

[AdamT]

if you have formZ you can make one there I guess.
I wish I did, but so far I've managed to resist the temptation. :)

I'll have to remind Paul about that. Knowing the man, he probably has it sitting on his HD doing nothing.

[bobtronic]

hi Adam,

nice work. Guess I right its part of your logo
project ? The only critique is pure technical,
the lower wire-loop bend in the wrong direction.
The loop must bend always to the right otherwise
the screw would open the loop slowly. If you could fix
that and maybe make some contactplates under the
screws it would be perfect.
I know I am picky but as a electrcian I have an eye
for such things :)

regards, Bob

[AdamT]

Thanks Bob. As an electrical klutz I appreciate it. ;)

[kiwi]

Nice Adam :thumbsup:



What about the twist deformer for threads?.......in 7 there was a tute or some info in the manual or in one of the tute pdfs,or something on screws and making screws I believe :) .....pretty sure thats where I remember it from.




Stu.

[Deestrakt]

WOW

very nice work on the materials. especially for the screws & cables, its perfect !
they look just like they should :thumbsup:

[pit]

Very nice! Real DOF Camera?

[AdamT]

Thanks all.

Kiwi: I'll have a look at the old XL tutorials--I think I have a vague recollection of the tutorial you're talking about.

Deestrakt: thank you! I spent a *lot* of time trying to get the metal materials right, eventually concluding that a bunch of fused grime maps (Surface Toolkit by dVGarage) in the bump and diffusion channels look better than a purely procedural approach. I used a Sky object with an HDR image for the reflections.

Pit: yep, that's the Real dof camera. Very handy contraption.

[flingster]

thats cool...materials are stunning.

only comment is with wear and tear aging look..would expect a little more wear on the screw bit where you put the screwdriver..cuts seem to clean...maybe a bit more like the one at the back...wear on side where screwdriver twists against if really tight...hopefully you know what i mean...the metal surface these fittings are attached to is excellent material wise...but would expect a little dust in edges...maybe a couple of paint scratches at the moment its just to clean.....yup i'm being picky...cos its a kickin image as usual...but I know a guy like you can fix these otherwise i wouldn't have commented...
nice job bud...:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[Brucie Rosch]

I did a twist of a cube lately to make a quicky-fake of bolt threads. It works nicely... you just have to add enough y-subdivisions to the cube. It's not very controllable for the beginning and end of the threads though.

[pause to play with method]

I just tried making it editable and then adding a taper and that seems to work. You'll have to play with it to get it smooth though. I tried a hypernurbs too and it still looks faceted... maybe needs more y-subdivisions to start with?

[artemesia66]

i've used a lathe nurbs with movement and a high rotational angle and subdivn (ie if you have 5000deg rotation, you need like 500 subD for a close-up--the value is for the whole length of the object, as well as the rotation).

you still have to make it editable to do the head and the point.

[Deestrakt]

thx for the infos, Adam
u really didnt waste your time working on this metal :)

[JIII]

ultra nice dude. but I am wondering if maybe the copper should have a bit of a higher specualr and reflection to it seems just a tad dull.

anyway thats really promising. I also vaugly remember seeing some sort of screw thing a while ago.

[Cinema1954]

Screw thread at Renderosity (http://www.renderosity.com/messages.ez?Form.ShowMessage=1224851)

You may want to check out this thread at Renderosity... over the course of things, we figured out how to keep it from being such a pain.

[Brucie Rosch]

Adam, have you checked out the corroded metals at Noctua? I've been using them in my latest WIP (retro robot) and I adapted one of them into a nice copper... I'll be posting my robot WIP soon (still rendering 5 hours+)
Noctua SLA presets page (http://www.noctua-graphics.de/english/C4D-Mat/free_sla01_e.htm)
edit: there is an copper preset (three actually) at the bottom of this page
more Noctua presets (http://www.noctua-graphics.de/english/C4D-Mat/free_sla03_e.htm#)

[AdamT]

Originally posted by Brucie Rosch
Adam, have you checked out the corroded metals at Noctua? I've been using them in my latest WIP (retro robot) and I adapted one of them into a nice copper... I'll be posting my robot WIP soon (still rendering 5 hours+)
Noctua SLA presets page (http://www.noctua-graphics.de/english/C4D-Mat/free_sla01_e.htm)
edit: there is an copper preset (three actually) at the bottom of this page
more Noctua presets (http://www.noctua-graphics.de/english/C4D-Mat/free_sla03_e.htm#)

Thanks Brucie, I'm going to check those out. Darksim has a really nice copper shader, but unfortunately their Simbiont *really* doesn't like my new computer.

[basilisk]

Loved the shiny screwheads, but they look like corroded metal that's been given a good wirebrushing to polish them up. Would anyone actually do that?

Also, when you strip off the insulator from the copper wire, and where the screw clamps it, you tend to scratch and scuff the surface of the copper (scratches might have higher specular because they haven't been exposed to atmosphere for so long?)

Being pedantic here (I've just been doing a load of wiring)
James Newman

[CGTalk Moderation]

This thread has been automatically closed as it remained inactive for 12 months. If you wish to continue the discussion, please create a new thread in the appropriate forum.