View Full Version : WIP: Time-Tele C&C please
VestanPance 04-11-2003, 07:44 PM This was a project for a challenge on a 3D site. It is a telephone that had to be "Time-Travel / Mad Scientist" incorperated. I went with a two-way / Time Trascending phone (complete with video and speed-dial :) I had to turn it in last night but I would still like to improve on the lighting and texturing. Any C&C would be greatly appreciated.
The Whole Thing (http://artbeat.pccmm.com/Individuals/SeanPaulMckee/Final.jpg)
Power Source detail (http://artbeat.pccmm.com/Individuals/SeanPaulMckee/Tele_Power_Detail.jpg)
Dials detail (http://artbeat.pccmm.com/Individuals/SeanPaulMckee/Tele_Dials_Detail.jpg)
Camera detail (http://artbeat.pccmm.com/Individuals/SeanPaulMckee/Tele_Cam_Detail.jpg)
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mimo8
04-11-2003, 08:01 PM
WWWOOOOWWW!!
a lot of love for details
I like the different metal-shader you used
(noctua graphics?)
two things I´m missing i are:
- a enviroment or just some kind of surrounding
(the grey plane and the black backround are not realy convincing me)
- perhaps you could add some noise/dirt etc.
it seems brandnew - unused
but all in all a realy fine piece of 3D work
:thumbsup:
nice nice pic but if it was a little messier with a few chipped edges etc. it might look a little bit better.
but man thats good nothing wrong at all.
I give it two thumbs and maybe a toe as well up
dandavis
04-11-2003, 08:08 PM
Although I think that the "brand new" look is great, I like it better when things look a little used. Superior modeling here. Nice work. I think mimo's comment pretty well sums up my opinion too.
flingster
04-11-2003, 08:10 PM
c + c 's thats a toughie...cos its looking sweet and i feel any crits would just be well out of line...as i couldn't possibly come close to something like this...but i'm gonna try and be constructive...rather than an idiot! fantastic work...love everything about it.
couple of things that might be worth looking at....i'll assume the thing has been used...so think about the dirt n grime side of it...and i don't mean heavy...SUBTLE stuff...like fingerprints...smudges etc on the brass/glass parts after been cleaned...also if you polish something like say a brass clock or this you would expect areas to be more worn/clean than other areas the nooks and crannies that a polishing cloth would not be able to get into....on those old style phones/time machines! (usually dark areas where the cleaning cloth misses the gaps between the brass fittings and the wood).
The cable was usually wrapped in a (textile) material. if i get chance i'll try and spot some reference material to highlight what i mean (time machine reference material is kinda thin on the ground though!).
The dials colour would have yellowed slightly due to age...or sunlight...unless its been stored in a box or something.
Now these are minor tweaks/adjustments...and i'm not being a s**t and knocking your work cos i love it...but you asked for c+c's...whether you agree is up to you though...it would also take a long time to fiddle about with to add this stuff...and not sure if its worth it.
great work
:thumbsup: :beer: :thumbsup:
flingster
04-11-2003, 08:20 PM
damn you guys are quick see above comments!
:wip:
VestanPance
04-11-2003, 09:08 PM
Thanks to all responces so far. I went for the clean look simply out of time and more correctly cause' I have no clue how to do it. I need to get my hands on some good Photoshop direction.
mimo8: You get the prize! Yes, I did use a Noctura shader for the brass although it was really hacked up. An enviroment will give it context for aure. Good point.
JIII: Thanks and yes more dirt.
Flingster: Thanks for the detailed response. I will give a go at what you said.
dandavis: Thanks.
Any links to good "Dirtying techniqes" or aging textures would be greatly appreciated.
More C+C if you like.
Thanks, Gruss,
Gunter
04-11-2003, 09:43 PM
All I can say in my poor english:
Makes looking an adventure:thumbsup:
Gruss,
Gunter
flingster
04-11-2003, 10:44 PM
VestanPance: definitely take a look at dvgarage.com just register for free then go to tutorials section and past tutorials then view the one about the silver top and the puck...numbers 2,3,4 worth a look...give you idea into principle..specular/diffusion and reflection stuff...they also have a surfaceing kit but thats not free will cost ya but has dirt/grime maps in...not so sure you need it though...concete...greyscaled...then levels...me thinks should do trick.
(textures grime dirt etc....Dosch Textures: Texture Aging Kit but again costs money...www.doschdesign.de)
just photocopy your fingerprints and scan them in etc....i'm sure you come come up with scratches etc....then maybe create a brush in photoshop.
then i've included some links....not particular to yuor issue...and fairly broad...but worth a read anyway.
http://www.secondreality.ch/ (go to tutorial section one on worn armour etc and rusty metal) this is obviously not subtle enough...BUT it give you some techniques worth reading.
then cgtalks own leigh...excellent tuts
http://leigh.cgcommunity.com/tutorials.htm
basic shack tut but still informative.
http://www.rethinkfx.com/tutorials/texture.htm
very good...photoshop and xsi but still very very good.
http://www.edharriss.com/tutorials/tutorial_xsi_texture_mixing/Mixing_textures_Photoshop_SoftimageXSI.htm
little article about a book...but read principle 6 (fig 1.5)
http://www.cadmonkey.com/tip5b.htm
all lightwave and mainly about bump...but technique again.
http://www.ap3d.com/betterspace/betterspace-tut-11.htm
Oooh i'm sure someone else can help ya more than me...but should give ya a clue...you could always got to texturing forum on cgtalk and see if anybody has any grime/dirt maps they will give ya...or any tips etc....if ya find any let me know will ya....cheers.
good luck.
:cool:
VestanPance
04-11-2003, 11:09 PM
Whoa! :eek: Thanks.
:thumbsup:
flingster
04-11-2003, 11:22 PM
no probs...
save your judgement after youve seen the sites!! heh heh...
(youve no excuse now....heh heh)
have fun..:thumbsup:
flingster
04-12-2003, 01:19 AM
ok i've got some reference for ya...
see the images i'm talking about SUBTLE grime..scratches...aging.
scratches at bottom right of page
http://pages.tias.com/5039/PictPage/1226108.html
and
http://pages.tias.com/26/PictPage/1214908.html
grime in nooks and crannys - bottom of page
http://pages.tias.com/8858/PictPage/1921396030.html
clock face aging damn..colourings
http://pages.tias.com/2107/PictPage/1474695.html
reference...nautical timepieces.
http://pages.tias.com/87/PictPage/1018903.html
http://pages.tias.com/87/PictPage/1251756.html
really no excuses now!!!:shrug:
VestanPance
04-12-2003, 01:34 AM
"Crack!" went Flingster's whip loveingly refered to as "get-yo-a$$-in-gear".
Thanks. I am gettin' all inspired to dig in again. Thanks. I will keep you updated.
I like it :)
Ok crits - Your metal is to luminant {damn is that a word},vibrant and either you have no diffusion in your metal shader or your lighting is confusing the overall scene.Ok look at it like this when you look at the surfaces the metal is on the brass does not appear to wrap around its surface,like say cylindrical mapping on a cylinder.What is happening is your metal is not showing signs of the light falling off as it wraps around the shapes and moves further away from the original light source,which gives you a gradient type of change in the light and gives the illusion of depth or 3 dimensions.Like I said this could be that your metal is to reflective and does not allow for fall off or it could be you have to many lights or they are positioned in the wrong place.
For a basic lighting rig to start from I use a slightly yellow omni of for starters 100 with soft shadow.Next I add a camera and the omni or "key" light should be 15 to 45 degrees from the angle of your camera,this gives you your simulated sun more or less.Next add another omni make it 30 to 40 % and no shadow and an orange brownish color,this is your fill light,or light which fills in the areas opposite your key.I normally place my fill at the opposite degrees of my key,so 15 for the key I start at -15 for the fill and tweak from there.Also place your fill lower then your key light.Next I add a lightish sky blue colored area light with soft shadow and around 20 - 30% above the scene,this gives us a simulated sky and the color from it bleeding into our other surfaces and materials from it,ie blue water etc.
Hope some of that has been helpful :)
Stu.
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