nibraz
03-08-2006, 09:31 PM
Hi,
I have a AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core 4400+ processor and wondering how do I overclock the cpu?
thx!
I have a AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core 4400+ processor and wondering how do I overclock the cpu?
thx!
View Full Version : Overclocking?
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SweetDreamz
03-08-2006, 11:53 PM
You do it in the BIOS.
nibraz
03-09-2006, 12:16 AM
Im a bit new to the overclocking stuff really lol. Well yes bios but there are some advanced option in bios, in which menu in bios does it states to overclock?
Simon
03-09-2006, 12:25 AM
Why do you need to overclock a 4400?!
it will be in the system frequency/voltage settings. Seriously only overclock it in increments of 1. Maybe read up on the subject first.
it will be in the system frequency/voltage settings. Seriously only overclock it in increments of 1. Maybe read up on the subject first.
MattClary
03-09-2006, 12:26 AM
Go to the link below and start reading. My advice is to not do it. If you do do it, be very conservative.
http://www.hardforum.com/
http://www.hardforum.com/
tecton3d
03-09-2006, 12:43 AM
read this first:
http://archive.chipcenter.com/eexpert/dgilbert/dgilbert037.html
and this:
http://archive.chipcenter.com/eexpert/dgilbert/dgilbert038.html
the article are a bit dated, but still make logical sense about your query...
these guys are addicts:
http://www.ocforums.com/index.php?s=
. . . specific to AMD's:
http://www.ocforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=3
I don't know a whole lot about it but, how you overclock a system depends primarily on the specific hardware the system is composed of. For example... some Tyan dual socket 940 boards cannot be overclocked in BIOS, you have to use a windows based "tuning" software to change the FSB and Multipliers of the motherboard. (the FSB and multipliers are the "doohickies" that determine the processors' Ghz) Other Motherboards, like Asus' PC-DL can easily overclock from the BIOS as they tout on their website... up to 15% : )
certain processor overclock better than others... even ones of the same family... 1.6xeon, 3.2 p4 northwood... etc. The "stepping" of the processor is basically what indicates its pedigree. For example... a D1 - 1.6ghz Xeon processor with SL6XK stepping, commonly overclocks to 3.2ghz with air cooling. As you'd expect... that's pretty impressive... effectively doubling the power of the processor for near nothing. but the C1 stepping SL6XK 1.6lv Xeon can rarely reach 3.0ghz... with me?
the tradeoffs of overclocking is that systems produce more heat and you always have the possibility that you're going to fry something, either by the act of trying to overclock it or it'll burn out prematurely due to the added strain on the components that are running at higer voltages, FSB's and what have you... Also, it's common thought (and sense) that overclocking a system decreases a systems' stability.
Some of the more aggresive overclockers will go to the point of hacking up a motherboard with custom soldering in order to achiever higher voltages for ram. . . etc. Note: Don't expect a manufacturer to honor a warranty after you've F'd something up with your own soldering gun!
All in all, if you start with the right components, overclocking can be easy, stable and give you a hell of a lot of return for next to nothing! Just don't sacrifice system stability for the fun aspect of hot rodding your system. Do your research and understand what's going on with your system before trying to crank up the magic numbers (FSB and multipliers)... make a list and check all of the components of your system and research to see if they can handle an overclock. EX: You may have to end up buying new ram (that's usually way more expensive) in order to OC even a little bit. Your PSU will have to be able to throw more power to the motherboard, the heatsink on your proc may not be adequate for overclocking... etc.
FWIW... the X2's commonly overclock well, but the socket 939 dual core opterons OC like manbeasts : )
http://archive.chipcenter.com/eexpert/dgilbert/dgilbert037.html
and this:
http://archive.chipcenter.com/eexpert/dgilbert/dgilbert038.html
the article are a bit dated, but still make logical sense about your query...
these guys are addicts:
http://www.ocforums.com/index.php?s=
. . . specific to AMD's:
http://www.ocforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=3
I don't know a whole lot about it but, how you overclock a system depends primarily on the specific hardware the system is composed of. For example... some Tyan dual socket 940 boards cannot be overclocked in BIOS, you have to use a windows based "tuning" software to change the FSB and Multipliers of the motherboard. (the FSB and multipliers are the "doohickies" that determine the processors' Ghz) Other Motherboards, like Asus' PC-DL can easily overclock from the BIOS as they tout on their website... up to 15% : )
certain processor overclock better than others... even ones of the same family... 1.6xeon, 3.2 p4 northwood... etc. The "stepping" of the processor is basically what indicates its pedigree. For example... a D1 - 1.6ghz Xeon processor with SL6XK stepping, commonly overclocks to 3.2ghz with air cooling. As you'd expect... that's pretty impressive... effectively doubling the power of the processor for near nothing. but the C1 stepping SL6XK 1.6lv Xeon can rarely reach 3.0ghz... with me?
the tradeoffs of overclocking is that systems produce more heat and you always have the possibility that you're going to fry something, either by the act of trying to overclock it or it'll burn out prematurely due to the added strain on the components that are running at higer voltages, FSB's and what have you... Also, it's common thought (and sense) that overclocking a system decreases a systems' stability.
Some of the more aggresive overclockers will go to the point of hacking up a motherboard with custom soldering in order to achiever higher voltages for ram. . . etc. Note: Don't expect a manufacturer to honor a warranty after you've F'd something up with your own soldering gun!
All in all, if you start with the right components, overclocking can be easy, stable and give you a hell of a lot of return for next to nothing! Just don't sacrifice system stability for the fun aspect of hot rodding your system. Do your research and understand what's going on with your system before trying to crank up the magic numbers (FSB and multipliers)... make a list and check all of the components of your system and research to see if they can handle an overclock. EX: You may have to end up buying new ram (that's usually way more expensive) in order to OC even a little bit. Your PSU will have to be able to throw more power to the motherboard, the heatsink on your proc may not be adequate for overclocking... etc.
FWIW... the X2's commonly overclock well, but the socket 939 dual core opterons OC like manbeasts : )
nibraz
03-09-2006, 02:22 AM
I think overclocking my cpu now is not that much of a gd thing to do lol. Thanks for all your help guys, really appreciate it :)
tecton3d
03-09-2006, 02:59 AM
overclocking... little word ~ big implications : )
fal$eProfit
03-10-2006, 02:48 AM
Pretty much you want to increase your FSB (Front Side Bus) from the standard 200Mhz on all stock AMD systems to something that will not crash on you. That has a 2.2Ghz processor speed which means that it has a CPU multiplyer of 11.
The CPU multiplyer X the FSB speed = processor speed.
So if you cranked the FSB to 250 you would up to 2.75Ghz
A more conservative 225 FSB would get you 2.475
When you crank up the FSB you are also speeding up the memory and the PCI slots with your graphics cards. An overclocking motherboard should lock in the Speed to the Graphic card from what I've read. If you don't have overclocking memory you need to lower the speed of it.
That's how I understand it though I have no experience and am just looking seriously into it right now.
The CPU multiplyer X the FSB speed = processor speed.
So if you cranked the FSB to 250 you would up to 2.75Ghz
A more conservative 225 FSB would get you 2.475
When you crank up the FSB you are also speeding up the memory and the PCI slots with your graphics cards. An overclocking motherboard should lock in the Speed to the Graphic card from what I've read. If you don't have overclocking memory you need to lower the speed of it.
That's how I understand it though I have no experience and am just looking seriously into it right now.
RPG2006
03-10-2006, 07:46 AM
As has already been said you need to read up on it first. Don't just go headlong into it, as there's a good chance of buggering your chip. There's plenty of overclocking guides to be found. For a safish bet, you want to keep below 1.5v on the X2 and keep temps below 50c.
RPG
Edit: If your 4400 is a new ADV chip rather than ADA, there's a bit more leeway on the temps and they are supposed to be good overclockers on air/water. I'd still want to try and keep it below 1.5V/50c though.
RPG
Edit: If your 4400 is a new ADV chip rather than ADA, there's a bit more leeway on the temps and they are supposed to be good overclockers on air/water. I'd still want to try and keep it below 1.5V/50c though.
lots
03-10-2006, 03:30 PM
Actually the easiest way to over clock your system would be with Nvidia's Ntune (assuming you've got Windows XP 32bit and an Nforce4 mobo). Just load the software, press the "tune" button, and presto, it automatically OCs to a safe level. No thinking on your part, no worrying about damaging parts.
Natrually it wont be as high as you could get it if you went and tweaked stuff in BIOS, but it does work for the average user.
Natrually it wont be as high as you could get it if you went and tweaked stuff in BIOS, but it does work for the average user.
kaiser_pro
03-10-2006, 04:35 PM
overclocking is the best way to turn your nice new stable system into a bluescreening waiste of space. its really not worth it. (unless you spend loads of money on heat sinks and other such poo, you might as well buy another cpu for roughly the same price)
FunkyCowie
03-11-2006, 03:49 PM
overclocking is the best way to turn your nice new stable system into a bluescreening waiste of space. its really not worth it. (unless you spend loads of money on heat sinks and other such poo, you might as well buy another cpu for roughly the same price)
Sorry but you seem quite ignorant about the subject, if the poster of the topic follows the very informative advice already given and the info in the links he could quite safely OC his machine and shave some time when rendering. Both my rendering machines are OC'd and run solidly on air cooling which saves about 10 seconds per frame.
Oh and yes OC'ing can shorten the lifespan of your cpu but most people who use a computer for highend work are likely to upgrade often enough to not be bothered by the shortened life span.
Sorry but you seem quite ignorant about the subject, if the poster of the topic follows the very informative advice already given and the info in the links he could quite safely OC his machine and shave some time when rendering. Both my rendering machines are OC'd and run solidly on air cooling which saves about 10 seconds per frame.
Oh and yes OC'ing can shorten the lifespan of your cpu but most people who use a computer for highend work are likely to upgrade often enough to not be bothered by the shortened life span.
tecton3d
03-11-2006, 05:10 PM
Both my rendering machines are OC'd and run solidly on air cooling which saves about 10 seconds per frame.
. . . I am planning on building 4 dual Xeon nodes an overclocking them within reason (I'll stop at 3.0ghz when they can sometimes go to 3.4) with Asus PC-DL's, 1.6lv D1 xeons, and the rest of the components (which will be brand new) - decided upon by people who have experience with this system.
Oh and yes OC'ing can shorten the lifespan of your cpu but most people who use a computer for highend work are likely to upgrade often enough to not be bothered by the shortened life span.
very true.
even with overclocking it's still hard to just "wear out" a piece of hardware... the stuff is designed to take more strain than what we are led to believe... so you could say (within reason) that it's underclocked - giving overclockers a little more room to flex.
. . . I am planning on building 4 dual Xeon nodes an overclocking them within reason (I'll stop at 3.0ghz when they can sometimes go to 3.4) with Asus PC-DL's, 1.6lv D1 xeons, and the rest of the components (which will be brand new) - decided upon by people who have experience with this system.
Oh and yes OC'ing can shorten the lifespan of your cpu but most people who use a computer for highend work are likely to upgrade often enough to not be bothered by the shortened life span.
very true.
even with overclocking it's still hard to just "wear out" a piece of hardware... the stuff is designed to take more strain than what we are led to believe... so you could say (within reason) that it's underclocked - giving overclockers a little more room to flex.
RPG2006
03-11-2006, 11:40 PM
Well picked up a new chip today. An x2 3800+. Would seem like a step down from my x2 4200, but it's got a decent stepping.
Had it running at 2.45 ghz at 1.3v. That's basically undervolting if anything. Dual prime stable for 8 and half hours. That's faster than an x2 +4800 at less than stock volts. It cost me 14,400 baht, the x2 4800+ costs 42,000 baht. My watercooling cost 6000 baht. Basically the difference is another 7800 gtx, or better another holiday.
Am currently on 2.55 ghz at stock voltage. just passed super pi 32m dual instance. Will now prime. I'm heading towards an fx-60 on stock volts. Yes I'm taking a risk, I can appreciate that, but it's one I'm willing to take.
RPG
Had it running at 2.45 ghz at 1.3v. That's basically undervolting if anything. Dual prime stable for 8 and half hours. That's faster than an x2 +4800 at less than stock volts. It cost me 14,400 baht, the x2 4800+ costs 42,000 baht. My watercooling cost 6000 baht. Basically the difference is another 7800 gtx, or better another holiday.
Am currently on 2.55 ghz at stock voltage. just passed super pi 32m dual instance. Will now prime. I'm heading towards an fx-60 on stock volts. Yes I'm taking a risk, I can appreciate that, but it's one I'm willing to take.
RPG
tecton3d
03-11-2006, 11:45 PM
RPG 2003,
just out of curiosity, what's your case and watercooling setup?
just out of curiosity, what's your case and watercooling setup?
RPG2006
03-12-2006, 12:21 AM
Limited for supplies here in Thailand, but my case is a Thermaltake kandalf. http://www.jedicool.com/list.php?cate=1&productid=238
Watercooling, for my sins I have a kit. I did have a Bigwater SE with Volcano 4005, which was okay. I've now installed a Gigabyte Galaxy setup with 1/2" tubing. I'd say out of the kits, this has got to be one of the best. In reviews it out performs corsair with swiftech parts. I've got dual prime running in the backround, while I'm typing this. Ambient is 91f/33c, cpu temp is approx 43/44(full load). Obviously that will be a lot less if you live in chillier climes. To give you an idea I did have a zalman fan/heatsink way back and full load temps on my x2 4200 were hitting 61.(Oops)
There is a downfall though with my case/watercooling combination. Kandalf is fine with the bigwater to setup. With the Gigabyte, however the radiator outlet runs straight down over one of the ports on my graphics card. The only way around this is to move my card to the bottom pcie slot for dual monitor setup. Gigabyte do make a case which is especially designed to work with the galaxy. The Aurora or something. it isn't much to look at though.
http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=810
RPG.
Watercooling, for my sins I have a kit. I did have a Bigwater SE with Volcano 4005, which was okay. I've now installed a Gigabyte Galaxy setup with 1/2" tubing. I'd say out of the kits, this has got to be one of the best. In reviews it out performs corsair with swiftech parts. I've got dual prime running in the backround, while I'm typing this. Ambient is 91f/33c, cpu temp is approx 43/44(full load). Obviously that will be a lot less if you live in chillier climes. To give you an idea I did have a zalman fan/heatsink way back and full load temps on my x2 4200 were hitting 61.(Oops)
There is a downfall though with my case/watercooling combination. Kandalf is fine with the bigwater to setup. With the Gigabyte, however the radiator outlet runs straight down over one of the ports on my graphics card. The only way around this is to move my card to the bottom pcie slot for dual monitor setup. Gigabyte do make a case which is especially designed to work with the galaxy. The Aurora or something. it isn't much to look at though.
http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=810
RPG.
tecton3d
03-12-2006, 02:11 AM
Limited for supplies here in Thailand, but my case is a Thermaltake kandalf. http://www.jedicool.com/list.php?cate=1&productid=238
Watercooling, for my sins I have a kit. I did have a Bigwater SE with Volcano 4005, which was okay. I've now installed a Gigabyte Galaxy setup with 1/2" tubing. I'd say out of the kits, this has got to be one of the best. In reviews it out performs corsair with swiftech parts. I've got dual prime running in the backround, while I'm typing this. Ambient is 91f/33c, cpu temp is approx 43/44(full load). Obviously that will be a lot less if you live in chillier climes. To give you an idea I did have a zalman fan/heatsink way back and full load temps on my x2 4200 were hitting 61.(Oops) RPG.
No wonder you're able to get to 2.55... those are some pretty impressive temps so that must be a decent (at least) setup! Did you have both of the Kandalf's 120's and the 90mm on top cranked up?!
Ambient 91deg F . . . is has to be summer there - right?
61 and you didn't fry anything - you're a lucky bastard!
There is a downfall though with my case/watercooling combination. Kandalf is fine with the bigwater to setup. With the Gigabyte, however the radiator outlet runs straight down over one of the ports on my graphics card. The only way around this is to move my card to the bottom pcie slot for dual monitor setup. Gigabyte do make a case which is especially designed to work with the galaxy. The Aurora or something. it isn't much to look at though.
http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=810
if you wanted to run video cards in SLI . . . you could pick up a 90deg to turn the radiator outlet back into the case... ?
Yeah, it looks like Gigabyte's Aurora case has one hell of an uderbite !!! Although if it works well enough you could always put it in a closet : )
http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/gigabyte_aurora/
Watercooling, for my sins I have a kit. I did have a Bigwater SE with Volcano 4005, which was okay. I've now installed a Gigabyte Galaxy setup with 1/2" tubing. I'd say out of the kits, this has got to be one of the best. In reviews it out performs corsair with swiftech parts. I've got dual prime running in the backround, while I'm typing this. Ambient is 91f/33c, cpu temp is approx 43/44(full load). Obviously that will be a lot less if you live in chillier climes. To give you an idea I did have a zalman fan/heatsink way back and full load temps on my x2 4200 were hitting 61.(Oops) RPG.
No wonder you're able to get to 2.55... those are some pretty impressive temps so that must be a decent (at least) setup! Did you have both of the Kandalf's 120's and the 90mm on top cranked up?!
Ambient 91deg F . . . is has to be summer there - right?
61 and you didn't fry anything - you're a lucky bastard!
There is a downfall though with my case/watercooling combination. Kandalf is fine with the bigwater to setup. With the Gigabyte, however the radiator outlet runs straight down over one of the ports on my graphics card. The only way around this is to move my card to the bottom pcie slot for dual monitor setup. Gigabyte do make a case which is especially designed to work with the galaxy. The Aurora or something. it isn't much to look at though.
http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=810
if you wanted to run video cards in SLI . . . you could pick up a 90deg to turn the radiator outlet back into the case... ?
Yeah, it looks like Gigabyte's Aurora case has one hell of an uderbite !!! Although if it works well enough you could always put it in a closet : )
http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/gigabyte_aurora/
deathman20
03-12-2006, 03:09 AM
overclocking is the best way to turn your nice new stable system into a bluescreening waiste of space. its really not worth it. (unless you spend loads of money on heat sinks and other such poo, you might as well buy another cpu for roughly the same price)
And thats a fact of lies, you need to read up on the subject a little more then just blurting what comes to your mind. I like many others have run overclocked rigs for years. It takes time to learn, and test the system to make sure it will run reliable and stable.
I've overclocked rigs as far back as the 486's up to todays systems. Intel has been my strong side when OCing many systems and just this past October I went to AMD for the power that there dual cores where doing with as little haet output so I could OC it safely without spending a decent amount of cash on a water cooling setup.
I know someone mentioned a fourm up higher for OCing, I use www.ocforums.com/ (http://www.ocfourms.com) quiet a bit, and just this past year i joined up with www.xtremesystems.org (http://www.xtremesystems.org). Quiet a bit can be found around these sites, and even more if you post on the sites saying your new and would like some help. They will give you idea's how to do it, what programs to help test stability and all.
Finally word of warning though, overclocking will void warrenty on system parts that are OC'ed. Its not an easy 1, 2, 3 thing to do but in the end if your trying to get at least some more bang for the buck it can be easily done, for me I like mid range setups that I can buy and get at least a decent amount above the higher grade component for a period of time. My system runs @ 2.68Ghz (80Mhz faster then the FX-60 chips at stock), its good for what I use it for, its stable and runs nice and cool on air (low 40's at full load).
And thats a fact of lies, you need to read up on the subject a little more then just blurting what comes to your mind. I like many others have run overclocked rigs for years. It takes time to learn, and test the system to make sure it will run reliable and stable.
I've overclocked rigs as far back as the 486's up to todays systems. Intel has been my strong side when OCing many systems and just this past October I went to AMD for the power that there dual cores where doing with as little haet output so I could OC it safely without spending a decent amount of cash on a water cooling setup.
I know someone mentioned a fourm up higher for OCing, I use www.ocforums.com/ (http://www.ocfourms.com) quiet a bit, and just this past year i joined up with www.xtremesystems.org (http://www.xtremesystems.org). Quiet a bit can be found around these sites, and even more if you post on the sites saying your new and would like some help. They will give you idea's how to do it, what programs to help test stability and all.
Finally word of warning though, overclocking will void warrenty on system parts that are OC'ed. Its not an easy 1, 2, 3 thing to do but in the end if your trying to get at least some more bang for the buck it can be easily done, for me I like mid range setups that I can buy and get at least a decent amount above the higher grade component for a period of time. My system runs @ 2.68Ghz (80Mhz faster then the FX-60 chips at stock), its good for what I use it for, its stable and runs nice and cool on air (low 40's at full load).
Beamtracer
03-12-2006, 05:04 AM
Overclocking may be fine on a machine for gaming.
I'd be really hesitant to do it on any machine you use for professional work. I think there's a possibility it could cause rendering errors, or the occasional glitch in your renders. You can't afford to have glitches in professional work.
I'd be really hesitant to do it on any machine you use for professional work. I think there's a possibility it could cause rendering errors, or the occasional glitch in your renders. You can't afford to have glitches in professional work.
RPG2006
03-12-2006, 05:16 AM
Lucky bastard or idiot. One or the other LOL.
If I'm right in thinking, Sli shouldn't be a problem, as only one port is covered. For dual monitor I could have each monitor connected to each card. The radiator does come with an attachment which fits proud of the back into the psu screw holes. However my PSU is at 90 degrees so that option is ruled out. I don't know about SLI, but will cross that bridge if and when I come to it. Time to learn abit about modding maybe.
Good idea regards the closet.
Deathman, there's another deathman floating about in cyberspace, except his opty 170 is naked;)
Just been frequenting xtremesystems.org of late. That's where I discovered the steppings for my x2 3800. There's some mad stuff going on over there. The sort of stuff I'm upto is beginners league. Tubes of dry ice are one thing that comes to mind. Check this out.
http://www.wausmod.computerjunkie.nl/projects.htm
Silly stuff. LOL
Regards a beginners guide. I think you mentioned this one in the past, but it's worth checking out the O/C guide on DFIstreet.com It's a downloadable pdf. It is specific to the DFI bios, but gives a good insight into the generic process and memory settings.
RPG
edit:currently priming at 2.65ghz 1.4v. shame I had to leave stock. will leave this going overnight I think.
If I'm right in thinking, Sli shouldn't be a problem, as only one port is covered. For dual monitor I could have each monitor connected to each card. The radiator does come with an attachment which fits proud of the back into the psu screw holes. However my PSU is at 90 degrees so that option is ruled out. I don't know about SLI, but will cross that bridge if and when I come to it. Time to learn abit about modding maybe.
Good idea regards the closet.
Deathman, there's another deathman floating about in cyberspace, except his opty 170 is naked;)
Just been frequenting xtremesystems.org of late. That's where I discovered the steppings for my x2 3800. There's some mad stuff going on over there. The sort of stuff I'm upto is beginners league. Tubes of dry ice are one thing that comes to mind. Check this out.
http://www.wausmod.computerjunkie.nl/projects.htm
Silly stuff. LOL
Regards a beginners guide. I think you mentioned this one in the past, but it's worth checking out the O/C guide on DFIstreet.com It's a downloadable pdf. It is specific to the DFI bios, but gives a good insight into the generic process and memory settings.
RPG
edit:currently priming at 2.65ghz 1.4v. shame I had to leave stock. will leave this going overnight I think.
tecton3d
03-12-2006, 12:59 PM
Just been frequenting xtremesystems.org of late. That's where I discovered the steppings for my x2 3800. There's some mad stuff going on over there. The sort of stuff I'm upto is beginners league. Tubes of dry ice are one thing that comes to mind. Check this out.
http://www.wausmod.computerjunkie.nl/projects.htm
Silly stuff. LOL
Enjoy:
http://www.tomshardware.com/2003/12/30/5_ghz_project/index.html
edit:currently priming at 2.65ghz 1.4v. shame I had to leave stock. will leave this going overnight I think.
It looks like your genetically blessed X2 3800 and the Gigabyte Galaxy were a bargian (295 + 180 = 475) compared to a 4800+... which you've left in the dust.
What do you think you'll slow it down to when all's said and done . . . 2.4/2.5?
http://www.wausmod.computerjunkie.nl/projects.htm
Silly stuff. LOL
Enjoy:
http://www.tomshardware.com/2003/12/30/5_ghz_project/index.html
edit:currently priming at 2.65ghz 1.4v. shame I had to leave stock. will leave this going overnight I think.
It looks like your genetically blessed X2 3800 and the Gigabyte Galaxy were a bargian (295 + 180 = 475) compared to a 4800+... which you've left in the dust.
What do you think you'll slow it down to when all's said and done . . . 2.4/2.5?
RPG2006
03-12-2006, 02:15 PM
Overclocking may be fine on a machine for gaming.
I'd be really hesitant to do it on any machine you use for professional work. I think there's a possibility it could cause rendering errors, or the occasional glitch in your renders. You can't afford to have glitches in professional work.
That's what programs like prime 95 are there for. Certainly some overclockers will complain that they can run all apps including 3d happily, but that their system fails prime in a matter of minutes. The test is to leave prime running on both cores for between 12 and 24 hours without errors. It's basically a mark, and a stringant mark, of whether your system is stable or not. There are I believe even more stringant tests OCCT??. Of course there is risk, but even a non overclocked system can give you troubles. Just my opinion. Basically it's down to choice, and being aware and prepared for the risks. Overclocking mid job, when your skint for instance is a bad idea.
Tecton3d, that link is funny. Seeing that photo, there's a motherboard in there somewhere.
Just watched the video as well. There's bit of data blanked out in cpuz. Not sure, but is that so they can take it back if it's buggered. honest we didn't overclock it.
Not sure what I'll slow it down to. Albeit mixed reports on this, there might be a bit of burn in to do. I'm also lead to believe that Artic Silver takes about 100 hours to settle in. So we'll see. Certainly I'm gather the order of destruction is voltage -> temperature -> clock speed, so 2.65v at 1.4v isn't looking bad at all. Definately a better chip than my previous x2 4200.:)
Cheers
RPG
I'd be really hesitant to do it on any machine you use for professional work. I think there's a possibility it could cause rendering errors, or the occasional glitch in your renders. You can't afford to have glitches in professional work.
That's what programs like prime 95 are there for. Certainly some overclockers will complain that they can run all apps including 3d happily, but that their system fails prime in a matter of minutes. The test is to leave prime running on both cores for between 12 and 24 hours without errors. It's basically a mark, and a stringant mark, of whether your system is stable or not. There are I believe even more stringant tests OCCT??. Of course there is risk, but even a non overclocked system can give you troubles. Just my opinion. Basically it's down to choice, and being aware and prepared for the risks. Overclocking mid job, when your skint for instance is a bad idea.
Tecton3d, that link is funny. Seeing that photo, there's a motherboard in there somewhere.
Just watched the video as well. There's bit of data blanked out in cpuz. Not sure, but is that so they can take it back if it's buggered. honest we didn't overclock it.
Not sure what I'll slow it down to. Albeit mixed reports on this, there might be a bit of burn in to do. I'm also lead to believe that Artic Silver takes about 100 hours to settle in. So we'll see. Certainly I'm gather the order of destruction is voltage -> temperature -> clock speed, so 2.65v at 1.4v isn't looking bad at all. Definately a better chip than my previous x2 4200.:)
Cheers
RPG
tecton3d
03-12-2006, 02:31 PM
RPG 2003 ~ can you quickly recommend a cheap(ish) skt 939 board for oc'ing? I've been trying to spec out X2 rendernodes and it may well be worth an extra $50 or so to get a board that will give be more system "bang for the buck". Your DFI LANPARTY SLI-DR Exp. is too high end for a dedicated 'node but I think spending up to $120 or so may prove to be a wise investment.
RPG2006
03-12-2006, 02:52 PM
Mate, not sure if I'm the best to ask. I'm new to DFI's. I'd say the easiest and least trouble free board I have used is the asus A8n-Sli premium. the asus deluxe had a dodgy chipset fan and the A8N32 SLi deluxe I had was about 15c hotter than the premium. The premium will give a simplified and reasonable overclock. It also won't let you stick silly voltages in as it's capped at 1.5v.
As far as DFI's, it's all mixed reports. I think that can be said for any of the brands though. best bet is to ask your question on www.DFI-Street.com (http://www.DFI-Street.com). My short experience of DFI's are that they can be quite fussy (especially the expert board)with components, memory/psu, and there can be a bit of bios tweaking just to get everything running. In fact to my dismay, I'm reading more recently that the expert boards are not so good, compared to the cheaper older NF4 Ultra-D. What I would say about DFI's is that they do offer you a lot more power when it comes to oc'ing, which is fun, and the dfi-street forum is excellent for advice and tutorials etc. That is certainly worth a lot.
Deathman20, has a bit more experience than me so might be able to give you better advice.
Sorry for being wooly.
RPG
As far as DFI's, it's all mixed reports. I think that can be said for any of the brands though. best bet is to ask your question on www.DFI-Street.com (http://www.DFI-Street.com). My short experience of DFI's are that they can be quite fussy (especially the expert board)with components, memory/psu, and there can be a bit of bios tweaking just to get everything running. In fact to my dismay, I'm reading more recently that the expert boards are not so good, compared to the cheaper older NF4 Ultra-D. What I would say about DFI's is that they do offer you a lot more power when it comes to oc'ing, which is fun, and the dfi-street forum is excellent for advice and tutorials etc. That is certainly worth a lot.
Deathman20, has a bit more experience than me so might be able to give you better advice.
Sorry for being wooly.
RPG
tecton3d
03-12-2006, 03:32 PM
Mate, not sure if I'm the best to ask. I'm new to DFI's. I'd say the easiest and least trouble free board I have used is the asus A8n-Sli premium. the asus deluxe had a dodgy chipset fan and the A8N32 SLi deluxe I had was about 15c hotter than the premium. The premium will give a simplified and reasonable overclock. It also won't let you stick silly voltages in as it's capped at 1.5v.
As far as DFI's, it's all mixed reports. I think that can be said for any of the brands though. best bet is to ask your question on www.DFI-Street.com (http://www.DFI-Street.com). My short experience of DFI's are that they can be quite fussy (especially the expert board)with components, memory/psu, and there can be a bit of bios tweaking just to get everything running. In fact to my dismay, I'm reading more recently that the expert boards are not so good, compared to the cheaper older NF4 Ultra-D. What I would say about DFI's is that they do offer you a lot more power when it comes to oc'ing, which is fun, and the dfi-street forum is excellent for advice and tutorials etc. That is certainly worth a lot.
Deathman20, has a bit more experience than me so might be able to give you better advice.
Sorry for being wooly.
RPG
the DFI LANPARTY UT nF4 Ultra-D comes in at $122 which is ok, and if it's not a PIA to get working (like the EXPERT) then it may be a consideration for me (at this point anyway).
I posted my question over at OCforums and will update here with my findings.
thanks!
As far as DFI's, it's all mixed reports. I think that can be said for any of the brands though. best bet is to ask your question on www.DFI-Street.com (http://www.DFI-Street.com). My short experience of DFI's are that they can be quite fussy (especially the expert board)with components, memory/psu, and there can be a bit of bios tweaking just to get everything running. In fact to my dismay, I'm reading more recently that the expert boards are not so good, compared to the cheaper older NF4 Ultra-D. What I would say about DFI's is that they do offer you a lot more power when it comes to oc'ing, which is fun, and the dfi-street forum is excellent for advice and tutorials etc. That is certainly worth a lot.
Deathman20, has a bit more experience than me so might be able to give you better advice.
Sorry for being wooly.
RPG
the DFI LANPARTY UT nF4 Ultra-D comes in at $122 which is ok, and if it's not a PIA to get working (like the EXPERT) then it may be a consideration for me (at this point anyway).
I posted my question over at OCforums and will update here with my findings.
thanks!
FunkyCowie
03-12-2006, 05:38 PM
Overclocking may be fine on a machine for gaming.
I'd be really hesitant to do it on any machine you use for professional work. I think there's a possibility it could cause rendering errors, or the occasional glitch in your renders. You can't afford to have glitches in professional work.
Gamers are more free to push their systems to the limits, that is true enough, but you can still coax more speed out of your cpus without causing rendering errors. I could push mine more if I was going to use them for gaming.
I'd be really hesitant to do it on any machine you use for professional work. I think there's a possibility it could cause rendering errors, or the occasional glitch in your renders. You can't afford to have glitches in professional work.
Gamers are more free to push their systems to the limits, that is true enough, but you can still coax more speed out of your cpus without causing rendering errors. I could push mine more if I was going to use them for gaming.
deathman20
03-12-2006, 05:46 PM
the DFI LANPARTY UT nF4 Ultra-D comes in at $122 which is ok, and if it's not a PIA to get working (like the EXPERT) then it may be a consideration for me (at this point anyway).
I posted my question over at OCforums and will update here with my findings.
thanks!
The DFI Ultra-D is a downgraded SLI board. It is esentially the exact same board except theres a break on 2 contacts on the northbridge core to activate SLI on the board. Theres tutorials of how to convert it out there, I for one havn't done it but i've surely heard about this.
I posted my question over at OCforums and will update here with my findings.
thanks!
The DFI Ultra-D is a downgraded SLI board. It is esentially the exact same board except theres a break on 2 contacts on the northbridge core to activate SLI on the board. Theres tutorials of how to convert it out there, I for one havn't done it but i've surely heard about this.
deathman20
03-12-2006, 06:11 PM
Overclocking may be fine on a machine for gaming.
I'd be really hesitant to do it on any machine you use for professional work. I think there's a possibility it could cause rendering errors, or the occasional glitch in your renders. You can't afford to have glitches in professional work.
Now you might not consider pushing it as far as for professional work but you can certainly give it a nice little nudge into the right direction.
But as for rendering errors, or the glitch, one of 2 things happens...
Either the system locks up and reboots or the program will crash during a render. Now don't take this test lightly but when I was testing my OC, if I wanted to give it a nice quick answer if it was worth testing at this speed to make sure it was stable I fired up Max and gave it a nice shot to render (10-15min) and if it failed, it usually did it within a few min. Truely it was one of the best more or less real world tests that stressed both CPU's and the RAM hard and could be tested for long periods of time.
I have to agree though pushing a system as far as mine though for professional work either you'll be investing lots of time into making sure its stable, or you'll find it crashing during important work. With a more mild OC to say 2.4 on my system, I can run at stock voltages, its cool and well decently quiet considering the system I have.
Anyways give you a little of an idea of tempatures I'm dealing with here... Mind you this is on an aftermarket heatsink with a 120mm fan. I have a 120mm fan blowing into and out of the case as well, with an additional 120mm over my GPU and the final one blowing onto my Power Modelues for the motherboard. All are running 7V or are on a fanbus thats running 7V and can be turned up if needed (which in my case theres no need too).
OC'ed (2.68Ghz w/ 1.55V)
Idle Temp: 29-30C
1 Core Load: 38-39C
2 Core Load: 42-44C
OC'ed (2.4Ghz w/ 1.35V)
Idle Temp: 29C
1 Core Load: 35C
2 Core Load: 39C
Default Clock/Voltages (2.0Ghz w/ 1.35V)
Idle Temp: 28-29C
1 Core Load: 34-35C
2 Core Load: 38C
Default Clock/Under Volted (2.0Ghz w/ 1.1-1.25V) (extreme low voltage not recommened for long term use)
Idle Temp: 26C
1 Core Load: 30C
2 Core Load: 32C
Tempature range doesn't vary much which is a good thing between the voltage changes, but also mind you this is relatively low since I've taken off the IHS (Intergraded Heat Sink) off the CPU which well as most people say "Very Risky" and is not recommened for the average user. It did drop my tempatures 5C overall which is a good thing considering you want the highest clock with the lowest tempature possible tempatures or at least a tempature under 50C for the AMD cpu's.
I'd be really hesitant to do it on any machine you use for professional work. I think there's a possibility it could cause rendering errors, or the occasional glitch in your renders. You can't afford to have glitches in professional work.
Now you might not consider pushing it as far as for professional work but you can certainly give it a nice little nudge into the right direction.
But as for rendering errors, or the glitch, one of 2 things happens...
Either the system locks up and reboots or the program will crash during a render. Now don't take this test lightly but when I was testing my OC, if I wanted to give it a nice quick answer if it was worth testing at this speed to make sure it was stable I fired up Max and gave it a nice shot to render (10-15min) and if it failed, it usually did it within a few min. Truely it was one of the best more or less real world tests that stressed both CPU's and the RAM hard and could be tested for long periods of time.
I have to agree though pushing a system as far as mine though for professional work either you'll be investing lots of time into making sure its stable, or you'll find it crashing during important work. With a more mild OC to say 2.4 on my system, I can run at stock voltages, its cool and well decently quiet considering the system I have.
Anyways give you a little of an idea of tempatures I'm dealing with here... Mind you this is on an aftermarket heatsink with a 120mm fan. I have a 120mm fan blowing into and out of the case as well, with an additional 120mm over my GPU and the final one blowing onto my Power Modelues for the motherboard. All are running 7V or are on a fanbus thats running 7V and can be turned up if needed (which in my case theres no need too).
OC'ed (2.68Ghz w/ 1.55V)
Idle Temp: 29-30C
1 Core Load: 38-39C
2 Core Load: 42-44C
OC'ed (2.4Ghz w/ 1.35V)
Idle Temp: 29C
1 Core Load: 35C
2 Core Load: 39C
Default Clock/Voltages (2.0Ghz w/ 1.35V)
Idle Temp: 28-29C
1 Core Load: 34-35C
2 Core Load: 38C
Default Clock/Under Volted (2.0Ghz w/ 1.1-1.25V) (extreme low voltage not recommened for long term use)
Idle Temp: 26C
1 Core Load: 30C
2 Core Load: 32C
Tempature range doesn't vary much which is a good thing between the voltage changes, but also mind you this is relatively low since I've taken off the IHS (Intergraded Heat Sink) off the CPU which well as most people say "Very Risky" and is not recommened for the average user. It did drop my tempatures 5C overall which is a good thing considering you want the highest clock with the lowest tempature possible tempatures or at least a tempature under 50C for the AMD cpu's.
MarkusB
03-12-2006, 07:45 PM
Hi,
I totally disagree that overclocking is just for gaming machines. I have several X2 3800+, runing at 2300-2400 Mhz, which I use for rendering, and I never had a single blue screen on them since 6 months.
My workstation is an Opteron 170 (4gb) runing at 2630MHz with std VCore and air cooling (32C idle, 49C at full load, and NO it isnt loud, it is almost 100% silent). I have it for 4 weeks now and not a single crash !
The first thing you will notice when your MHz is too high, is that you get UNEXPECTED EXCEPTIONS in backburner on files which worked before. Then just decrease the FSB till the errors are gone.
So, if you do it right and have the right components you can get a very fast and stable system for less money (but you need some time to tweak it). I guess that almost ALL X2s or Opterons which are produced at the moment runs at 2200-2300 MHz. They were just downlabled to sell as a x2 3800+.
But, as always there isnt a 100% gurantee that OC works. A friend of mine bought a X2 4400+ and it only runs at 2300MHz. (Like I said.. I guess thats the lowest quality level of AMD at the moment)
-Markus
I totally disagree that overclocking is just for gaming machines. I have several X2 3800+, runing at 2300-2400 Mhz, which I use for rendering, and I never had a single blue screen on them since 6 months.
My workstation is an Opteron 170 (4gb) runing at 2630MHz with std VCore and air cooling (32C idle, 49C at full load, and NO it isnt loud, it is almost 100% silent). I have it for 4 weeks now and not a single crash !
The first thing you will notice when your MHz is too high, is that you get UNEXPECTED EXCEPTIONS in backburner on files which worked before. Then just decrease the FSB till the errors are gone.
So, if you do it right and have the right components you can get a very fast and stable system for less money (but you need some time to tweak it). I guess that almost ALL X2s or Opterons which are produced at the moment runs at 2200-2300 MHz. They were just downlabled to sell as a x2 3800+.
But, as always there isnt a 100% gurantee that OC works. A friend of mine bought a X2 4400+ and it only runs at 2300MHz. (Like I said.. I guess thats the lowest quality level of AMD at the moment)
-Markus
RPG2006
03-13-2006, 12:46 AM
Looking online, the 4400's and 4800's, generally I don't think are too much cop for oc'ing. The exception being the new ADV 4400's. As you say it's luck. some of the 4200's and 4600's with right stepping are hitting 2.9-3.0 ghz with ease.
Regards temperatures though, the big factor that needs to be taken into account is ambient. Just because one setup might work for someone else, it isn't going to necessarily work for you. If you are somewhere cooler or have A/C, then decent air cooling might be more than sufficient. I'm actually finally getting an a/c installed today, but temperatures here without a/c are above 30c 24/7 all year round. With temps like that, you can have all the air cooling in the world, it won't do much good. That 61c I hit overclocking was with an aftermarket zalman cooler, supposedly better than stock. There are other factors to be taken into account, but you get the idea.
I have to add, this also applies to standard non chilled watercooling. You will only ever get close to ambient with watercooling, not below.
RPG
Regards temperatures though, the big factor that needs to be taken into account is ambient. Just because one setup might work for someone else, it isn't going to necessarily work for you. If you are somewhere cooler or have A/C, then decent air cooling might be more than sufficient. I'm actually finally getting an a/c installed today, but temperatures here without a/c are above 30c 24/7 all year round. With temps like that, you can have all the air cooling in the world, it won't do much good. That 61c I hit overclocking was with an aftermarket zalman cooler, supposedly better than stock. There are other factors to be taken into account, but you get the idea.
I have to add, this also applies to standard non chilled watercooling. You will only ever get close to ambient with watercooling, not below.
RPG
tecton3d
03-13-2006, 12:10 PM
Regards temperatures though, the big factor that needs to be taken into account is ambient. Just because one setup might work for someone else, it isn't going to necessarily work for you. If you are somewhere cooler or have A/C, then decent air cooling might be more than sufficient. I'm actually finally getting an a/c installed today, but temperatures here without a/c are above 30c 24/7 all year round. With temps like that, you can have all the air cooling in the world, it won't do much good. That 61c I hit overclocking was with an aftermarket zalman cooler, supposedly better than stock. There are other factors to be taken into account, but you get the idea.
...true, I'm in VA, US and we have a wide range of seasonal temps. In the summers it can get up to 38C (albeit rarely) and in the winters avg temp is about -1 - -4C so, assuming I have a decent case and fans, I should be able to get away with air cooling most of the time.
I wonder if the stock HSF would've let you hit 61 and not fried the chip?! That's saying a lot about the Zalman.
I have to add, this also applies to standard non chilled watercooling. You will only ever get close to ambient with watercooling, not below.
RPG
yup!
. . . theres a break on 2 contacts on the northbridge core to activate SLI on the board . . .
what are the consequences of this?
...true, I'm in VA, US and we have a wide range of seasonal temps. In the summers it can get up to 38C (albeit rarely) and in the winters avg temp is about -1 - -4C so, assuming I have a decent case and fans, I should be able to get away with air cooling most of the time.
I wonder if the stock HSF would've let you hit 61 and not fried the chip?! That's saying a lot about the Zalman.
I have to add, this also applies to standard non chilled watercooling. You will only ever get close to ambient with watercooling, not below.
RPG
yup!
. . . theres a break on 2 contacts on the northbridge core to activate SLI on the board . . .
what are the consequences of this?
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