my forth model (WIP)...

[kiwi]

Thats nice :)


First thing I would do is try dark blue or dark grey as the background surface as opposed to white to really show off the scalpel,plus it will make the scalpel metal look better because of the scalpel contrast with the background :) ....just my 2 cents :)


Maybe a subtle environment map as well.


Stu.

[AdamT]

I like it. Regarding the banding, I think you need to increase the shadow map resolution. That might help smooth out the bump jaggies, too.

I think you also need more contrast on the blade--particularly the beveled/sharp part. Maybe make that section a selection and assign it a material with an environment/reflection or higher luminance.

[stevedeer]

cheers guys

I'll post an updated image later. I want it on a white b/g as I'll be doing a series of postcards, all with white b/g's. I's a real bugger getting the bade to look good on white though.

Adam... you're a superstar, increasing the shadow map sorted the banding

steve

[stevedeer]

improved shadow map, and better blade lighting...

steve

[kiwi]

Thats nice :thumbsup:



If you have to use white Steve how about exporting as a multi layer psd with a shadow layer,that way you can add as much depth to the image as you like,or even use an adjustment layer in PS and try dark blue for the shadows.Darker shadows will nullify the the white background and bring the scalpel out more :)



Stu.

[LucentDreams]

also Kiwi mentioned blue, which is very important, col0our in your hodow willhelp it a lot, realy subtle, so that in the shadow parameter the box still looks black at first glance, but still has colour. as for the bumps, its the mode you are using, I assume for one its mip, try circle for crisper bumping, is the image white to black? this is typically an issue go from 50% grey to black that should help. Think of it this way, 50% grey means no bumping. white means higher that the mesh, black means lower, anything using black to white is goin to go higher and lower with no 50% grey in the middle, aha but with antialiased images which tend to look smoother, there is some grey in there, but not perfectly smooth which cause the little jaggies.

[dirtySanchez]

Hi, have you tried an environment map on the blade and handle? It could help sharpen things up. Just an idea.

DS

[stevedeer]

Thanks guys

I will try the mult-layer thing (so much to learn!). Actually, there is a little blue in the shadow, I changed the shadow colour in light settings dialogue, it's a little subtle and doesn't really show up on the jpg.

Kaiskai... I will try your method, I also feel my hi-res bumps are not hi res enough!

DirtyS... actually there are enviro maps on the blade and handle, probably a bit too subtle. I think the angle of the camera (almost straight down) burns out the maps.

Steve

[LucentDreams]

it need not be any higher res than double your final size at most, and rarely that large, so in photoshop measure the size of the nife not the overall image, and thats how large your texture shoud\ld be, if need be do double but that shouldn't be necessary

[kiwi]

Steve if you want it to look really realistic I would try taking a good res pic of the ceiling in your room,thats whats going to be reflected in your metal as we are looking almost straight down on it :) ...even a kitchen image type jpg would work as well,but I would go with b and w as opposed to color,chuck it in a fusion SLA channel and try different blend modes.


Try cylindrical mapping.



Stu

[CGTalk Moderation]

This thread has been automatically closed as it remained inactive for 12 months. If you wish to continue the discussion, please create a new thread in the appropriate forum.