Positioning of realworld camera for HDRI

[rendermaniac]

You should take the fisheye images from where the rendered object will be (or as close as you can get). Also keep the camera level with the ground, otherwise you will need to rotate the texture around.

Simon

[TheWriter]

So you are attempting to do this without the aid of a chrome ball? :P

[RobinOberg]

You should take the fisheye images from where the rendered object will be (or as close as you can get). Also keep the camera level with the ground, otherwise you will need to rotate the texture around.

Simon
Cool :)
But what if I have several objects farther apart, should I try to get some kind of medium distance between all of them?

So you are attempting to do this without the aid of a chrome ball? :P
Yeah, why make it easy ;)
And I'm kind of lazy to use a tripod, which would kind of get in the way at parties and stuff.

[rendermaniac]

Cool :)
But what if I have several objects farther apart, should I try to get some kind of medium distance between all of them?


Yeah, why make it easy ;)
And I'm kind of lazy to use a tripod, which would kind of get in the way at parties and stuff.

Depends how acuarte you need to be. If you have a very small scene where the lighting is changing pretty dramatically between the objects then ideally you would want a set of fisheye images for each cg object you are putting in. If you are a large, more overcast scene then one set of fisheyes near the middle of your group would do. If it's completely overcast you can probably get away with a gradient on a skydome, unless you need to reflect things near or below the horizon.

Simon

[-Vormav-]

And I'm kind of lazy to use a tripod, which would kind of get in the way at parties and stuff.

...how exactly would you expect to take pictures for creating light probes without a tripod though?:surprised

[TheWriter]

Perhaps he intends to take multiple exposures VERY quick :P

[RobinOberg]

...how exactly would you expect to take pictures for creating light probes without a tripod though?:surprised
With "Image Stabilisation" features and a steady hand, it shouldn't be that hard.
I only need to take two pictures.
Perhaps "Stitch mode" could help aswell, but I haven't tried that one yet.

One advantage using fisheye lens over a reflective ball is that I don't have to use it only for fake light-probes, I can also use it for some extreme wide shots in photos. Perfect for those shots that takes an entire city, or a valley. (we have a few of those here, so..)
They are kind of expensive, so the more uses I can find for one, the better reason to get one I have :)

[rendermaniac]

I would definitely recommand using a tripod - or a monopod at minimum. But with a chrome ball, unless you have your ball on the ground on a table or the ground, you will need two tripods.
A tripod is worth the effort - even a mini one.

Simon

[-Vormav-]

With "Image Stabilisation" features and a steady hand, it shouldn't be that hard.
I only need to take two pictures.
Perhaps "Stitch mode" could help aswell, but I haven't tried that one yet.

One advantage using fisheye lens over a reflective ball is that I don't have to use it only for fake light-probes, I can also use it for some extreme wide shots in photos. Perfect for those shots that takes an entire city, or a valley. (we have a few of those here, so..)
They are kind of expensive, so the more uses I can find for one, the better reason to get one I have :)
Agreed on the advantages of a fisheye lens. I'm looking to pick one up myself.
But I'll second what rendermaniac is saying. Seems like you'd need the tripod just to keep the exposure from blurring (I wouldn't think that these are the kind of shots that you'd want to use your flash with..).
But hey, hope that works for you.

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