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AWD
02-20-2005, 09:47 AM
Hello everyone. I pretty much have no 3DS Max experience and I have two questions regarding modeling using this program. However, I have pretty good low-poly modeling skills, and used different software for this (poly-by-poly modeling technique). So my questions are:

1. I've read quite a nice NSX tutorial at www.munkmotion.com (http://www.munkmotion.com) which intoroduced poly modeling, but using splines for reference while modeling rather than blueprints themselves (splines created using blueprints). I wonder how many of you use this technique (using splines as reference)? Splining itself can take a lot of time, isn't it better to start poly-modeling right away using blueprints as reference (btw, that's the experience I have, there are no splines in the software I used)? Please tell your opinion.

2. How do I choose detail level (mesh density) while using poly-modeling? I mean, when creating high-poly models using poly-modeling technique, at first you create a low-poly model, then apply meshsmooth. But how do I know how 'low-poly' my base model has to be? A very basic example: car's wheel arch. In some tutorials/model examples I noticed different detalisation of this part - some have it rounder, some have it very basic. This of course leads to different base (non-smoothed) model detail. So how do I get the basic model detalisation right? I hope you understand my question.

3. A different question regarding 3D model e-shops. The models there usually have poly count indicated - is it triangular or quad polygon count?
-Vormav-
02-20-2005, 10:15 PM
1. It can be nice in some cases. Some people experience a great deal of slowdown with viewport backgrounds, in which case it would be nice to just quickly get the basic form down with splines, and then be able to take your time with your poly modeling without dealing with that slowdown. Also, if you create the splines first, and then offset them to be ahead of your poly model, then you get the advantage of having those lines appearing over your model, so you don't have to set your model to see through or anything like that. With a see-through poly model, sometimes it's just really hard to see the verts and edges up against the background image.
But I usually just start modeling right off of the reference shots. I only really use reference shots to get down the proportions at the start, so they don't even need to follow the references too closely.

2. Keep it as simple as you can while still controlling the output. In some cases, you'll need to add more detail to control the way that meshsmooth subdivides the mesh. You should also learn to use smoothing groups with mesh smoothing. Every time you add more detail to your base mesh, it's going to lead to an even higher poly count in your final, smoothed model. With using additional controls like smoothing groups, edge weights and creasing, you can often get the mesh to subdivide the way you need it to, without having to add more details.

3. Tris, I would assume. It'd be best to email whatever e-shop you're looking at and ask them personally, as this probably varies from site to site. I'd suggest staying away from those though, although it really depends upon which e-shop you're looking at. It seems like every time I download someone's "complete" model online, I have to spend a couple hours cleaning it up to get it to the point where I can comfortably make any changes that need to be made, and use it in animations. Often times, simply keyframing a change in the position of one of these models is asking too much.
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