WIP: Patrol Boat

[DaddyMack]

Hi RhinoFreak great, clean work so far man.
Looks like it will keep you busy for awhile ay...

[RhinoFreak]

Here is another progress update, starting to look like a boat :)

http://extremev6racing.com/BoatRender100.jpg

[Coolhand]

great work, love the mechanical details.

[RhinoFreak]

great work, love the mechanical details.
Thanks!

Here is a reference if anyone is interested

http://extremev6racing.com/boatref.jpg

[RhinoFreak]

Here is an update after a little more engine work.

http://extremev6racing.com/BoatEngines.jpg

[Weccop]

Cool stuff dude. I love the engines they look so real. I hope some day ... ;).

[WesleyTack]

this is just amazing work, great detail, very real, i thought the latest render was a picture of a reference! very nice, keep it up

[RhinoFreak]

this is just amazing work, great detail, very real, i thought the latest render was a picture of a reference! very nice, keep it up
Hopefully I will be able to make the whole boat that good! :)

[Weccop]

Only the second engine doenst show the full sticker.

[RhinoFreak]

Only the second engine doenst show the full sticker.
Its a shadow over it.

[RhinoFreak]

Here is an updated render and a wire

http://extremev6racing.com/PatrolBoat09.jpg

http://extremev6racing.com/PatrolBoat10.jpg

[EricCartman]

Awesome model! Render needs a lot of work. Try vRay or Brazil. Water looks like Pixelate filter in Photoshop.

[RhinoFreak]

Yea, I know... This is always how it ends up in the end... Great model/Ok render. There is only so much I can do with Rhino/Flamingo and the file sizes are just way to big for a clean transfer to 3ds max

Brazil is supposed to be released for Rhino soon so hopefully when/if that happens I will be able to produce some better stuff.

[RhinoFreak]

More updates:

http://extremev6racing.com/BoatRender01.jpg

http://extremev6racing.com/BoatRender02.jpg

http://extremev6racing.com/BoatRender03.jpg

http://extremev6racing.com/BoatRender04.jpg

[EricCartman]

You might wanna import your model into Maya where you can create cool water easily.

Also give Max a shot and render it with Vray.

[R_K]

hey is this one of those swift boats? :)

looks awesome! hats off to you and your modeling self! man i get that close to mechanical accuracy and i want to gut myself like a fish.

very cool! most impressive!

r

[RhinoFreak]

Ive tried exporting to 3dsMAX but my model comes in with holes & jagged seams plus the file sizes are so big its unworkable. Id just re-build it in MAX but I dont know how to even draw a polyline in MAX. Its got a million commands and no toolbars I can find similar to rhino. Wish there was a class around here somewhere.

[RhinoFreak]

hey is this one of those swift boats? :)

looks awesome! hats off to you and your modeling self! man i get that close to mechanical accuracy and i want to gut myself like a fish.

very cool! most impressive!

r
Its an HSST (high speed surface target) used by the Navy

[EricCartman]

Go to www.3dbuzz.com (http://www.3dbuzz.com) and register. Then go into downloads and download 3DS Max video tutorials. You will get the basics of max from A to Z in a few hours. These tuts are the best on the net and I would recommend them to everyone who is starting with Max. Plus, you will laugh at jokes :)

[RhinoFreak]

Go to www.3dbuzz.com (http://www.3dbuzz.com/) and register. Then go into downloads and download 3DS Max video tutorials. You will get the basics of max from A to Z in a few hours. These tuts are the best on the net and I would recommend them to everyone who is starting with Max. Plus, you will laugh at jokes :)
Hey, thanks for the tip! I tried it out last night, got about 2 hours into the first part and already am understanding a lot of it that was confusing before. Thanks

[=OverDrive=]

RhinoFreak,

Nice model and renders (for flamingo). What format are you exporting in for 3ds. I use the direct export #file#export selected#*.3ds and mess with the tessellation until it looks ok. It's always worked for me even with heavy modeling. I've also used IGES export too. I realize you'll have a heavy model with all components tessellating. I've gotten around this with joining and/or boolean unioning like or similar surfaces. This helps with reduction of unnecessary inner wall surfaces.

When going from Rhino to Maya my models seem to be even heavier. You may be able to offset the imported tessellated model with increasing the render tessellation in the attributes editor of each model. BTW I've never had any luck exporting nurbs to nurbs in Maya. I've only succeded in going from nurbs to polygon exports. Of course it could be because I'm on RhinoV2.

As far as the Brazil renderer in Rhino. That's a dream come true for me. Unfortunitly the Rhino V4 testing guy's on the rhino forum say it'll be a year before the Brazil integration with Rhino is complete. :scream: I'll be ready when it is.

Anyway I'll continue watching this thread to see your output. Keep up the good work.

O|D
Rockon:buttrock:

[RhinoFreak]

RhinoFreak,

Nice model and renders (for flamingo). What format are you exporting in for 3ds. I use the direct export #file#export selected#*.3ds and mess with the tessellation until it looks ok. It's always worked for me even with heavy modeling. I've also used IGES export too. I realize you'll have a heavy model with all components tessellating. I've gotten around this with joining and/or boolean unioning like or similar surfaces. This helps with reduction of unnecessary inner wall surfaces.

When going from Rhino to Maya my models seem to be even heavier. You may be able to offset the imported tessellated model with increasing the render tessellation in the attributes editor of each model. BTW I've never had any luck exporting nurbs to nurbs in Maya. I've only succeded in going from nurbs to polygon exports. Of course it could be because I'm on RhinoV2.

As far as the Brazil renderer in Rhino. That's a dream come true for me. Unfortunitly the Rhino V4 testing guy's on the rhino forum say it'll be a year before the Brazil integration with Rhino is complete. :scream: I'll be ready when it is.

Anyway I'll continue watching this thread to see your output. Keep up the good work.

O|D
Rockon:buttrock:
Thanks for the tips. Ive tried what you said with the .3ds and IGES exports. Both work but the IGES one gives me a bunch of messed up and missing surfaces and the .3ds meshing makes the max file way too big to be workable. Im going to try the "Rhino to Max Translator" from npowersoftware.com tonight and see how that works.

And like you I can't wait for the rhino release with brazil!

[Juggernaut1]

I have been working in Cadkey and exporting my mesh to 3Ds for years. It works pretty well converting surfaces to mesh and then exporting the mesh to DXF. The DXF import improved a lot in Max 6. Cadkey is an old program but I am fast at it so it gets the job done. The models I make in Cadkey are either solids or surfaces. Rhino translates to Cadkey by Iges surfaces, STEP, or Acis SAT files. Seems kind of round-about but whatever works.
Nice model! I am actually working on a similar RHIB boat right now.

[RhinoFreak]

Ok I think im gonna try and learn MAX thru this project. I got a couple pieces imported and started messing with materials. How do I apply decals like the mercury graphics on the side of the engine?

Here is my first (it needs work) :)

http://extremev6racing.com/58.jpg

[Juggernaut1]

You won't regret learning Max. It is much quicker to poly-model than work with surfaces. For all of the wires you have in the console you can use renderable splines. Use renderable splines for the tubular framework as well, build half and use the symmetry modifier under Modifiers->Mesh Editing to mirror. There are some great MAX tip in this thread. http://www.cgtalk.com/showthread.php?t=160223&page=1&pp=15
As far as decals go you will do a UV map modifier and add the bitmap to your material diffuse slot. There is a lot of good information on that in the help file.

[RhinoFreak]

Ok, learning the materials setup in MAX is taking a little longer than I had thought but Im slowly picking it up.

I deffinetly dont like the way "decals" work in MAX. Was much easier in Flamingo/Rhino.

Here is a preview of what I got so far:

http://extremev6racing.com/59.jpg

[RhinoFreak]

Here is another update using MAX. What would be the best way to show more detail on the engines? MAX is new to me so Im having trouble learning the materials/lighting. Should a make a more grey/less black material, adjust lighting (no lighting now)... Any tips would help, thanks

http://extremev6racing.com/PatrolBoat25.jpg

[EricCartman]

Looks cool. Maybe tone down the reflections.

Also get Brazil renderer (latest version is called Rio). It's free but you are limited to certain resolution (unless you purchase it).

Get it at www.splutterfish.com (http://www.splutterfish.com).

[RhinoFreak]

Looks cool. Maybe tone down the reflections.

Also get Brazil renderer (latest version is called Rio). It's free but you are limited to certain resolution (unless you purchase it).

Get it at www.splutterfish.com. (http://www.splutterfish.com.)
I have brazil also but im trying to get a hold of regular max before i jump into plug-ins. Im confused enough as it is :)

[EricCartman]

It's just a renderer. How to get cool results quickly?

Choose Brazil as production renderer, go to Luma options and check skylight. Thats it. You can also increase AA (button P3) on expense of longer render times. Then for really cool result just use HDRi image. There is a tutorial on Splutterfish page.

This will take you 5 minutes top and you will get so much better results which will boost up your confidence and you'll be tinkering with it till 5AM :)

[RhinoFreak]

It's just a renderer. How to get cool results quickly?

Choose Brazil as production renderer, go to Luma options and check skylight. Thats it. You can also increase AA (button P3) on expense of longer render times. Then for really cool result just use HDRi image. There is a tutorial on Splutterfish page.

This will take you 5 minutes top and you will get so much better results which will boost up your confidence and you'll be tinkering with it till 5AM :)
I tried what you said but Brazil doesnt seem to like my imported surfaces from rhino. They are jagged and have folds and lines thru them.

[EricCartman]

Can you post the wire and Brazil render?

This model deservs a cool render!

[RhinoFreak]

Can you post the wire and Brazil render?

This model deservs a cool render!
Ill have to do that after work, I only have Brazil at home. Here is some stuff I did today as Ive been playing with water... very frustrating. I just need someone elses flawless scene to drop this into :)

http://extremev6racing.com/PatrolBoat25.jpg

http://extremev6racing.com/PatrolBoat27.jpg

http://extremev6racing.com/PatrolBoat28.jpg

http://extremev6racing.com/wake.jpg

[RhinoFreak]

Another update, im kinda liking this water better

http://extremev6racing.com/wake2.jpg

[Juggernaut1]

How did you do the water and the wake? Looks nice. Calm weather I guess. Were those scanline renderings or using Brazil?

[RhinoFreak]

How did you do the water and the wake? Looks nice. Calm weather I guess. Were those scanline renderings or using Brazil?
These are all default 3ds max renders. The water has a noise bump and the wake is a bump of a .jpg that started out as a "V" shape and I distorted it a lot to get a broken up effect.

[EricCartman]

You might want to put a noise modifier on the water plane and a meshsmooth. See if you get better results.

[RhinoFreak]

You might want to put a noise modifier on the water plane and a meshsmooth. See if you get better results.
Hmm... no idea what that means but Ill try and figure it out :) Gotta remmember I only learned max last week.

[EricCartman]

Hehe...

Create a plane (like I don't know 30x30). Go to modifer stack and add Noise modifier (play with settings so you get a nice effect). Then apply meshsmooth modifier on top so it smooths the mesh (itterations x2 or more).

PS. It would be cool to model a dock or something. Not just water :)

[RhinoFreak]

Ok. was just playing with my settings and got a little but of a white water effect by adding "flourescence". I kinda like the effect, makes it a little more realistic.

http://extremev6racing.com/wake3.jpg

[RhinoFreak]

Ok, its getting better but how can I improve?

http://extremev6racing.com/HSMST01.jpg

http://extremev6racing.com/HSMST02.jpg

[RhinoFreak]

How can I get the appearance of the sun thru the hazzy sky in the background with maybe some reflections on the water?

[=OverDrive=]

It's looking good. I would suggest using a image in the background. Your water needs to reflect an environment like the sky. If your using Brazile R/S with 3ds you can use an HDRI image to get the right effect. Check out the sputter fish web site for the hdri tutorial.

Keep it up.

[RhinoFreak]

It's looking good. I would suggest using a image in the background. Your water needs to reflect an environment like the sky. If your using Brazile R/S with 3ds you can use an HDRI image to get the right effect. Check out the sputter fish web site for the hdri tutorial.

Keep it up.
I checked out their tutorial but didnt get thru all of it. I also cant find a free hdri image anywhere that would work with this scene. Havent tried expirimenting with backgrouds yet, maybe Ill try that.

[RhinoFreak]

Ok, what do you guys think about this one:

http://extremev6racing.com/lakescene.jpg

[Mattrne]

personally, I think that one looks wrong! Your water in the previous examples was looking much better. If you go to 3dcafe.com and have a look through the free stuff there there are a lot of images that are basically sunsets and stuff like that - this boat looks better on open water.

Rather than using a sunset image as just a background, try adding it to a poly plane or even better a half of a hemisphere. This will reflect in the water and you will be able to move it about in the scene to help the composition.

If you are after some good texturing tutorials i think that Neil Blevins site is excellent - www.neilblevins.com (http://www.neilblevins.com)

One thing i would try with the water is adding a bit more noise inot your black and white slots on your noise, so you get waves within waves. Also try adding a falloff material to the reflectivity and set it to a fresnel effect. This will make the surface reflect less as its normal moves away from the viewing angle.

Did you get the detail in your engines more? One thing I never used to do back in max2 (ahh the good old days) was use uv-mapping properly. If you get to grips with uv-s you'll be able to add some awesome bump maps which you can paint yourself. These coupled with good use of the specular and glossy parameters of your material will really help. Also, if youre using max, try not to use the metal shading type - stick to Anisotropic (with a map from photoshop of black and white gausian noise motion blurred in one direction (to create a brushed metal effect) in its bump slot) Phong or Blinn and adjust their settings
Hope that may help a bit!

[Argyll]

Nice Work - great looking engines but maybe a little large on the stern of the boat.

[RhinoFreak]

Nice Work - great looking engines but maybe a little large on the stern of the boat.
A little large?? Everything on this boat is within 1/8" or better accuracy. A faro arm was used to measure everything, no photo-modeling here.

[RhinoFreak]

Another render, this time using Brazil w/ skylight

http://extremev6racing.com/Brazil100.jpg

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