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View Full Version : NPR: Object: Prop: Katana


Carrot Juice
01-23-2004, 04:33 AM
This is my newest project, using the excellent and venerable Tomcat Cartoon Shader. It's all polys, and the heat temper edge IS modeled (just couldn't get it to look right with maps)

the pic:

http://img15.photobucket.com/albums/v45/CarrotJuice/Katana_final.jpg

and the wire:

http://img15.photobucket.com/albums/v45/CarrotJuice/katana_wire.jpg

Looking for a crit on the shading, something seems just a little "wrong" or synthetic right now. Also if any error jumps out at you don't hesitate to point it out.

Software used: Maya 5.0 unlimited with Tomcat Toon Shader (www.toonshade.com)

Thanks!

GeneralLethal
01-23-2004, 06:07 AM
I think using a very simple reflection map on the blade, with very blurred lighter and darker zones would add a more metallic look, without spoiling the toon effect.

Nice work!

Carrot Juice
01-23-2004, 01:45 PM
Yeah, that's a good idea. I have a diagonal ramp on there as the texture right not withh some highlights and darker areas. Problem is, I don't beleive Tomcat supports reflection maps- it's a shading map.

Thanks for the advice though, I will try to find some way to implement it. I'll post a close up as soon as I get home.

Katsushiro
01-28-2004, 04:12 AM
I'm going to apologize ahead of time because this is more advice on the technical aspects of the katana itself. The first thing is the tsuka (handle), in the model you have that little end-cap..the Kashira...would fall off. There is a knot that hold is in place pictured below.

http://swordforum.com/swd/nihonto/tsuka.jpg

It will be hard to model, I know.

The Habaki (that little piece between the handguard and the blade) is traditionally either brass or silver and should be colored accordingly. In the case of your blade I believe it would be more asthetically appealing if it were a dull silver.

The last thing I have to say has to do with the modeling. On a katana there is a kind-of bevel that runs down the flat edge of the blade until the point begins to curve upward. If you were to break the blade cleanly in half it would look like a diamond with the top point rounded off. I would recommend pulling the third isoparm out very slightly into space until that last vertical iso.

Again I apologize for the analism, I've just had a katana in my hand since about 6 years old.

Keep up the good work,
David Bickley

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